I can’t help but let out an audible sigh of relief as I leave Prague behind, melting into a seat on a RegioJet train speeding southwards. The city I loved 20 years ago has lost its charm for me. And that’s not Prague’s fault – it’s mine. I wilt in crowded places these days.
Staring out of the train window at the forested hillsides, the wagons whizz towards Brno, the Czech Republic’s second city. As the capital of Moravia, one of the large historical Czech regions, Brno is not short on medieval sites and picturesque pastel-coloured buildings.
Today, the city has a teeming live music scene, thriving art museums and, of course, excellent beer halls. Most importantly, there’s not a hen or stag-do in sight – this is a city that’s yet to be discovered by the crowds of tourists. These are the sites to see, and where to stay for a slice of city break heaven.
Get gothic
The pretty city is home to a cache of churches, a cathedral and a rather spooky ossuary. The 600-year-old Church of St James has a bell tower to ascend, but my tip is to visit the forgotten and recently excavated ossuary holding centuries-old bones of plague, cholera and war victims that are now carefully piled up in four small chapel rooms in the crypt underneath the church. It’s one of many subterranean spaces to visit in Brno – the former prison under the 13th-century Špilberk Castle, and the labyrinth under the food market are also creepy underground places to cool off from the heat of the summer.
Read more: This Polish city has street art, film history and £2 pints
Savour the hops
Brno is similar to Prague in a number of ways: architecture, language and the same flowing beer culture. Fantastic Czech beers that everyone knows and loves are sold on every corner – but without the drunk groups of sightseers. Overall, Brno is around 10 per cent cheaper than Prague, but you might experience something different during a night out sampling the flavours at Pivni Burza, aka the Beer Exchange, a pub modelled on a stock market. The prices go up and down as the night goes on, so purchase your pints at the right time or risk it and see the stock (beer) price rise.
.jpg)
Meander through art museums
Exceptional art museums and galleries are dotted around Brno’s city centre. The Museum of Applied Arts, hosts a number of shows, one of which, a ceramics and glass exhibition Made by Fire, shows off the country’s tradition of artisanal homewares. (These skills are still alive in the city: head to Ya Sama to try crafting with locals). Downstairs at the Museum of Applied Arts there’s a robot serving drinks in the cafe, which is both novel and a bit uncanny. Next door, in Pražák Palace, there’s a snazzy show about Czech metro design – font fans rejoice. The contemporary art showstopper is House of the Arts; the current group show Uncertain Domesticities features a yurt installation, a sculpture compiled of wooden furniture, and a photo wall of house cats.
Catch some music
Brno is a Unesco Music City, receiving this nod thanks to its gigs and events throughout the year. Brno Music Marathon, held in mid-August, books a selection of world music – including jazz, folk, acoustic and experimental music – from more than 10 countries. Outside of its festivals, Brno’s live music scene buzzes with energy. From indie and punk bands at Kabinet MUZ to jazz nights at Stará Pekárna and big gigs at Sono Centrum, most genres are covered. You can even perform yourself – head to Music Lab for its Monday jam sessions that occur weekly at 8pm. Entry is 100CZK (£3.50) but every musician who takes part gets 150CZK (£5.30) credit at the bar. Win, win.
Read more: The European city packed with Cold War curiosities
Gawk at the functionalist architecture
Brno is a gem for architecture nerds; think sleek lines, open spaces and a love affair with function over fluff. The star of the show is undoubtedly Villa Tugendhat. Designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe in 1930, this steel dream is mind-bogglingly well preserved. It’s also very popular – tickets sell out months in advance, so book in as soon as you start planning your trip. Just around the corner, Arnold Villa brings a transitional flair where Art Nouveau elegance meets early modernism. And don’t miss Villa Stiassni, a 1920s beauty that once hosted visiting royalty. There are free tours on the hour in Czech but most guides will give you a brief version in English if you look puzzled.
How to get there
Lucie was a guest of ByWay travel who arranged her train travel to Brno – taking the Eurostar to Brussels, where she picked up the European Sleeper to Prague. This new night train route departs Brussels three days a week and arrives in Prague the following morning after a cosy night’s sleep. From Prague, Brno is a two-hour train ride heading south. There are also direct trains from Brno to Hamburg, Graz and Budapest. Alternatively, there are direct flights to Brno from London via Ryanair. Flight time is around two hours.
Where to stay
Hotel Grandezza Luxury Palace
This boutique hotel is nestled in Brno’s historic Zelný trh square, beautifully restored with a stunning hand-painted glass ceiling and marble mosaics in the lobby. Most of the large rooms have views of the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul and Špilberk Castle in the distance. Don’t miss the homemade desserts at Cosmopolis Café downstairs.
Grandhotel Brno
This classic, upscale hotel blends history with contemporary comforts. Located in the heart of the city, its stylish rooms allow easy access to the city’s attractions. There’s great dining in-house at Garden, which serves a mix of Czech and international dishes with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients.
Read more: Why you should visit Cesky Krumlov – the ‘Prague-in-miniature’
