As the Orwell Lady cruised under a huge river bridge, I scanned for local celebrities – a pair of nesting peregrine falcons under one of the piers. No sign. They were probably having a lie in.
Beyond were bands of woodland, boats at anchor, oystercatchers on the wind, the odd pub on the shore and a six-storey Tudor folly. The skipper told stories of smugglers and pointed out where Admiral Vernon lived, famous for introducing the famous “grog” tipple to the Royal Navy.
It takes a huge leap of imagination to think of the peaceful Orwell river in its heyday, when Ipswich’s port was an epicentre of trade. Wool was exported and oil, soaps, fish and fur came in. As trade increased, so did the number of shipbuilding yards.
Boat builders are still active. Not just any old ships, mind. In Casino Royale, Daniel Craig cruised into Venice on a gleaming Spirit 54, made by Spirit Yachts, based close to the dock.
I stepped off the Lady and onto the waterfront, where cafes, bars and restaurants spill onto pavements. Masts tinkled in the breeze and the sun bounced off sleek-nosed yachts, bobbing alongside new pontoons. In the summer, it’s like being on the Mediterranean.
Not many out-of-towners know this side of Ipswich, as most visitors head beyond it to the coast. Yet it’s an hour away from London by train. They’ve heard of Ipswich Town FC at Portman Road, but what else?
“People look down on Ipswich,” says Joe Bailey, the CEO of live music organisation Brighten The Corners. “But actually it’s the soul of Suffolk.”
Those in the know love that heart and soul. Town leaders are betting on it, too, as they lead a bid to be named the UK’s City of Culture in 2029. In the pipeline are the opening of a clay museum, the refurbishment of the Art Deco Broomhill Lido, a sauna on the water and the reopening of Ipswich Museum.
Intrigued by the underrated town, I was keen to walk its streets. Fuel first, though. I stopped at Coffeelink for a pick-me-up brew on the front and then strolled over to Bistro on the Quay for a pocket-friendly, three-course lunch. My recommendation is to start with the satay chicken, then follow it up with the rich beef, slow-cooked in Belgian beer and gingerbread. I chose a pudding for the ages: a custard tart topped with poached rhubarb and blood orange along with a chunk of honeycomb and mascarpone. I’ll be back, for sure.
The set menu was one of several memorable meals I indulged in on my stay. At the French-style Crafty Fox, I devoured one of its crousti patates – melted brie, bacon and onion jam slathered over crispy roast potatoes. For something more casual, the classic Greyhound pub served delicious swordfish steak and sweet corn salsa.
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The Greyhound is just up the road from the 16th-century Christchurch Mansion, a handsome red brick pile, fringed by parkland and ponds. I got up close to John Constable paintings of the family, friends and acquaintances, particularly moving in his 250th anniversary year. His iconic painting The Hay Wain will be shown here from July 11.
Christchurch’s grand park is a town favourite for summer festivals. The biggie is Ipswich Music Day, the largest free one-day music festival in the country. The love is spread around town with the Food and Drink Festival, Ipswich Windrush Society’s Heritage & Legacy Music Festival, and the new Halo and In the Works.
As I strolled about town I was drawn to its fantastic collection of buildings. Both ancient and modern, it’s not surprising 600 of them are listed. The Sailors Rest is a jettied timbered building in burnt tangerine, leaning over a street named Silent. A place called the Ancient House froths with pargetting. I wanted more intel, so booked a tour with Ipswich Tourist Guides.
First, though, I walked back to my hotel on the waterfront, passing the Wine Boutique. Owner Julien poured me a large glass of fruity French Malbec. The walls are lined with bottles, there’s a vinyl player in the corner, and The Cure filled the room. Luckily, my bed for the night at the Salthouse was only a few steps away.
“The name most associated with the founding of Ipswich is King Rædwald,” said my guide Evelyn the next day, as we wandered up the waterfront “and he established a port and town here. Ipswich can claim to be England’s oldest town.”
Turning inland, we passed a red brick Tudor gate. It’s all that’s left of a school built by Henry VIII’s fixer Thomas Wolsey. He was said to have been born in the building, now the Black Horse Pub, and baptised at St Mary At the Elms, which houses a significant Marian shrine, as well as the third oldest door in England.
We walked along quieter streets of colourful independent shops and cafes, collectively named The Saints. We also peeked into The Thomas Wolsey pub. Timber-framed, beamed and panelled, it’s a Tudor jewel. No wonder Suffolk’s own superstar Ed Sheeran found it the perfect place to perform a surprise gig there last year. Sheeran is known for his love of the town; I spotted the odd pink plaque marking his appearances in various spots.
When the sun shines, you can sit out back on a green square of land, facing one of the most beautiful buildings in town: the Unitarian Meeting House. I opted for a quick browse in the gift store Loveone and got sucked into the magic at “wellness space” Mugworth & Mistletoe.
It was at this point I realised I was late for worship. The ex-hallowed nave of St Stephen’s, otherwise known as The Church, has been refashioned into a music venue. Holy calm? None! When I opened the door, I saw DJs set up in the sanctuary where the altar once stood.
I grabbed a beer and toasted the town’s ability to surprise me. This unsung destination has music, culture, history, great food and a sunny optimism. All reasons I’ll return this summer.
How to do it
Greater Anglia trains to Ipswich leave London Liverpool Street (from £22 return), taking just over an hour. Branch line journeys run from stations in Essex and Norfolk.
Where to stay
The Salthouse offers 70 rooms and a new spa, right on the harbour. Its restaurant has been given an elegant, slinky makeover by the designers who reimagined The American Bar at London’s The Savoy. Bed and breakfast double rooms from £208.
Claire Boobbyer was a guest of The Salthouse, Greater Anglia and All about Ipswich
