In the weeks after I was diagnosed with coeliac disease, I experienced a wide range of emotions.
Relief, for finally knowing why I was unwell. Grief, for my old life of being able to eat whatever I wanted. But a huge amount of it was trepidation. I love to explore new places, but how can I travel safely if I am constantly afraid of food making me ill?
Coeliac disease affects an estimated one in 100 people and is not an allergy to gluten but an autoimmune condition, where the body’s immune system attacks its own tissues. A diet completely free from gluten – present in wheat, barley, spelt and rye – is the only treatment.
Gluten, for those with the disease, can cause unpleasant short-term symptoms such as stomach pain and nausea, and serious long-term complications. Even tiny amounts of gluten from cross-contamination can cause a reaction.
Eating in restaurants can be a nightmare, and I’d heard plenty of horror stories about people forced to survive on plain rice for a week on holiday as they couldn’t find anything to eat.
As a result, I have been fairly anxious to travel after being diagnosed around a year ago – that was, until a friend suggested Madrid.
It has been hailed by influencers as having extensive gluten-free options and restaurants, So I booked my flights faster than you could say “adiós”. But was the food as amazing as I had hoped, and did it allay my fears?
Hotels
Finding a hotel that can cater for gluten-free options is vital for me post-diagnosis, as it means I can have at least one safe meal on holiday that I don’t need to worry about.
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As a result, I was especially keen to try the Only YOU Boutique Hotel in Madrid, which is attached to Celicioso, a 100 per cent gluten-free bakery and restaurant. It helped that the hotel room was stunning, featuring maps of the city all over the walls and bathroom, and with a small balcony overlooking a sunny side street.
For breakfast, I was allowed to order from the Celicioso menu and eat a meal from a completely gluten-free kitchen, which was a treat for me as I usually have to worry about cross-contamination at buffets.
I had the signature Celicioso poached eggs for breakfast, which arrived quickly, and they were perfectly cooked to my liking with a runny yolk. We couldn’t resist returning for lunch, with the Celicioso menu focusing on bright, fresh food which is mostly naturally gluten-free anyway.
The food was good enough that I temporarily forgot I had coeliac disease: the salmon with sweet potato crisps was light and tasty, so we shared the basque cheesecake and red velvet cake for dessert. You wouldn’t have known they didn’t contain gluten if you weren’t told.
For those who would prefer to stay in a chain hotel, Radisson Blu Madrid offers solid gluten-free options for breakfast and is well-located in the city, with large, clean bedrooms and comfortable beds.
There is an entire gluten-free section of its buffet, with bread and pastries in packets, which are safe from cross-contamination, and the chefs were knowledgeable about coeliac disease. They will cook fresh eggs separately for you, and I had them with avocado on a gluten-free baguette.
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Bakeries
Bakeries are typically difficult for me to navigate, as if there is any gluten involved, there is a high risk of crumbs getting into food. But there are several coeliac-safe bakeries in Madrid, so first I made my friend walk for almost an hour across the Spanish capital to try Holy Grain, which features brightly coloured doughnuts, cakes and biscuits.
The cinnamon bun was the highlight of our visit. My non-coeliac friend said it was the best she had ever tried, even including those containing gluten.
We also visited Pastelería La Oriental sin Gluten, which seemed promising as it was extremely busy, and we couldn’t help but take extra recommendations from the people working there.
The croissant was slightly too bready for me – the flaky pastry admittedly tricky to replicate without gluten – but the biscuit selection held together well, which is impressive given gluten-free bakes often fall apart.
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Restaurants
There are so many coeliac-safe restaurants in Madrid, I was spoilt for choice on which one to try first. But of course, when in Spain one must have tapas, so we headed straight for a 100 per cent gluten-free restaurant called LaLina Bravas y Tapas La Latina on our first evening in the city.
I have never seen so much choice on one menu, to the extent that an amused waiter told us we had ordered too much food. Patatas bravas, croquetas and iberico pork arrived swiftly at our table and we scoffed it down; the absence of gluten barely registered.
Our second evening of the weekend saw us visit Restaurante Casa San Juan Comida Española, another totally gluten-free restaurant, which we were lucky to get a table at, as everyone else who arrived after us was turned away. We specifically wanted to try the paella, and the chicken did not disappoint – the meat was tender and perfectly seasoned.
Other special mentions include Churrería Chocolateria 1902, which serves separate gluten-free churros clearly marked by different-coloured plates, and Solo de Croquetas, where you’ll find a completely gluten-free tasting menu of exciting flavours of croquetas, from squid ink to chocolate brownie.
I could have easily spent another week eating my way through recommendations in Madrid. The fact my non-coeliac friend didn’t notice the difference most of the time shows just how easy it is to make gluten-free food, and the Spanish capital is an example every city should aspire to.
I would urge anyone in my position to book a trip to Madrid as soon as possible. You will finally feel able to relax – which is a rarity for someone with coeliac disease – and fall back in love with food again.
Sian stayed in Madrid as a guest of Only YOU Boutique Hotel and Radisson Blu Madrid Prado.
How to get there
EasyJet flies to Madrid from London Gatwick, Luton, Manchester, Edinburgh and Bristol, with prices starting at £19.99 return. Flight time is around two hours and 30 minutes.
Where to stay
Only YOU Boutique Hotel is situated in an old 19th-century mansion, and its beautiful interior design has earned it several international awards. Rooms from £200 per night.
Radisson Blu Madrid Prado is located in the Golden Triangle of Art, just a short distance from the Prado and Thyssen-Bornemisza museums, and was once the residence of a Spanish noble family. Rooms from £130 per night.
