There’s no prize for guessing the place in the world that people associate with romance. Its primary landmark brings people to their knees – or one knee, usually – and it inspires visions of warm smiles across candlelit tables and, as Nat King Cole put it, “silk stockings thrown aside dance invitations”.
It’s Paris, of course. A preconception that has been around for hundreds of years and, in our modern times, is fuelled by Hollywood. It’s classic Paris – Eiffel Towers in snow globes, and bridges lovingly vandalised by padlocks indicating love and commitment.
But does Paris still live up to its reputation as the “city of love”? I dipped under the Channel to sample activities we associate with love and Valentine’s, to find out if there is any classic romance left on the streets of the French capital.
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If Before Sunrise taught us anything, it’s that trains can be places of romance, though admittedly, Ethan Hawke and Julie Delpy’s views had a bit more to them than the blacked-out vista from an early-morning Eurostar as its passengers hurtle underneath the English Channel.
The journey is a breeze, though, from city centre to city centre in just over two hours. There’s a choice of four-seaters with tables or pairs sitting opposite each other, which makes the journey feel like a restaurant date – albeit one at 300km an hour.
I float the idea of champagne, but my wife suggests that, at 7am, it may not be the most romantic thing, so we settle for the standard breakfast of a pastry and yoghurt with apple compote. Our way back – in Eurostar’s Premier offering – offers a fuller spread for dinner, complete with choices between creative, classic and aromatic dishes.
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As we walk from Gare du Nord, waves of rain turn the Parisian streets into a city-wide cabaret act as umbrellas are opened and shut every few minutes. Just as we note that our surroundings are becoming a lot more trendy in the 10th arrondissement, we find our base for the weekend.
The Hotel Providence, just outside the centre in Saint Denis, has the air of classic Paris romance. Our room is on the smaller side, but its two windows give us a perfect view of the streets below, and you can feel part of the bustle with your partner while being removed from it. The neighbourhood itself is perfect, with theatres mixed among alternative, cool cafes. We enjoy a walk along the Canal Saint-Martin. Paris on this Friday afternoon feels quaint, and we relax into it together.
The dizzying number of bistros is often where a warm traditional welcome is found. On the suggestion of a local friend, we head into Bistrot Victoires and hustle past worn wooden bars and Parisiennes hunched over plates of escargot.
A young local couple explains to us the effect that the symbol of Paris has on tourists. Whether it be Emily in Paris or even the more nuanced but still kitsch Amelie before her: “Those depictions do not show the real experience, and it’s concerning that tourists may be disappointed with what they find.”
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The Netflix series Emily in Paris – which Independent journalist Katie Rosseinsky has suggested people who know Paris should steer clear of – colours the modern understanding of the city for many. Its fashionistas and setpieces present a pristine Paris that doesn’t match the real thing. But the worn bar and bustling energy offered here invite a couple to enjoy the moment together.
To spark romance the couple suggest – as we found ourselves doing – sitting by the Canal Saint-Martin or the quieter banks of the Seine.
As we dive into the 1st arrondissement – the oldest in the city – couples are scattered around that famous iron-glass pyramid of the Louvre as we walk through. Some having fun, some whose romantic trip has resulted in arguments over which way to go and how to navigate the swirling arrondissement structure of the city. All are looking for that elusive Paris aura. We walk on, and a rainbow over the Seine greets us.
We head to Lafayette’s for the evening. It’s “neo-bourgeois” cuisine, and in a brazen attempt to communicate what that means, the trappy beats of Travis Scott and Drake rattle the ornate decor. Not all of Paris can be Sidney Bechet or Jacques Brel. In any case, it’s fairly jarring. Though that may be its intention, with star chef Mory Sacko bringing a more bold modern twist to the ornate Paris of old.
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And the food is impressive, Lafayette’s signature burger is lined with a caramelised sweetness and the crunch of perfectly constructed brioche. A fillet of salmon in a sorrel sauce is light but truly satisfying.
As it turns out, a scene from Emily in Paris was filmed here. The titular American sits with friends, and it feels as though that is the vibe Lafayette is for; couples are swept to the side of the room in order to prioritise larger tables. The looming spectre of Emily has searched us out, and we slip out into the night to wander past cafes of couples and crowds of friends.
Tonight, we dive into the place that gives the city of romance its reddish glow: the Moulin Rouge. Through the bustling streets of Montmarte and underneath that great rotating mill, we whisk ourselves into a world of velvet maroon and feathers.
Audience members eager for a good time file in and out in a style more akin to a racetrack than a world-famous cabaret. It is a tourist hotspot – not so much a place to light love’s flame. Yet there is a charm to the decor and the dim red lights that dot its large, bouffant space. The performance is impressive, with spectacle driven by flamboyant outfits and partial nudity. It oscillates from lovably camp to eye-catching with its intermittent circus-adjacent performances. “Why do I love Paris?” A big closing number asks: “Because my love is here.”
An early rise on the weekend seems to offer eager visitors a chance to see Paris in a more serene state. The tranquillity around the fountains in the Tuileries Garden is enough for one to drift off alongside a significant other, awoken perhaps, by a kiss if you’re lucky.
An incredible exhibition at the Monnaie de Paris celebrates mathematical artist M. C. Escher. From there to the Musée l’Orangerie to gaze at the panoramic scenes of Claude Monet’s Water Lilies. The contrast gives an indication of the wealth of art on offer in the city.
And we do discover its flow. We find welcome in the smile of Samir, an older man making pomegranate juice outside of Le Petit Bleu, a small Tunisian cafe in Montmartre. This leads to us enjoying some tajine, its wonderful blend of aromatic vegetables preparing us for the climb up to Sacre Coeur. Despite its name, Le Petite Bleu may not be classic Paris, but maybe there’s something in that. The city inviting us to take a chance on this homely little gem.
Love is perhaps not in the air in Paris; it’s warming itself in the toasty corners of bistros or it’s drifting aimlessly down side streets adorned with iron and glass. The classic activities can offer a helping hand to happy couples, but it is more the beauty of the city that invites you to draw each other close or share a special moment; you just need to make sure you’re in a scenic place to watch Paris when it blooms. It’s a cliche for a reason, you can enjoy a wonderful Valentine’s weekend in the city of love.
Liam’s trip was supported by Eurostar, Hotel Providence and Moulin Rouge.
