Liquid gold sunlight splashed over the desert not long after dawn. Above me, the baby-blue canopy of sky was brushed with the faintest wisps of cloud, dissolving into the warming air. In the distance, craggy silhouettes of mountains looked like the edges of a torn map, their outline blurred by the morning haze – a silent promise of the adventure that can be found in Arizona.
I was jet-lagged, that peculiar blend of exhaustion and exhilaration, where time feels unmoored. My body protested against this trek through the Sonoran Desert, starting from a trailhead 25 miles outside the city of Scottsdale, a winding walk along sunbaked paths, past creosote bushes and the occasional darting lizard. But at the same time, a quiet energy captivated me.
I was absorbed into stories about the saguaro cactus, native to and a symbol of the desert (its blossom is the state flower of Arizona). They live long – some can reach 150 to 200 years – and are woven into local Native American myths: that they embody the spirit of ancestors, that a lost boy became the first saguaro. In a surprise to myself, I was actually thankful to have woken at 5.30am.
This was the juxtaposition I’d been promised in Scottsdale. I was seeking a rejuvenating escape – but one that didn’t spare holiday indulgences. A friend familiar with my pseudo-healthy life – occasional gym visits between late-night bars and long hours working – suggested this invigorating Arizonan city. I was told of delicious dining and potent cocktails balanced by getting active outdoors, all at the end of a direct flight from London.
During the “golden age of Hollywood”, A-listers were lured to Scottsdale. Actors Clark Gable and John Wayne were visitors. Natalie Wood married Robert Wagner there. James Cagney, Bette Davis, Humphrey Bogart and Marilyn Monroe were fans. Many of the stars checked into Hotel Valley Ho, which captured the essence of mid-century glamour, embracing a sleek, minimal aesthetic at a time when grand and ornate was the order of the day.
Scottsdale could easily be swallowed by the nearby metropolis, Phoenix; it’s that bigger city you will fly into. But head around 10 miles north and you find a place where modernism sits beside Spanish Revival architecture, home to around 240,000 people, and an unhurried pace that makes it feel more like a laid-back resort town. As my visit unfurled into a whirlwind of martinis, tostadas and cacti, it became a firm favourite.
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The natural beauty is undeniable. Long, straight highways that take you out of town become winding roads, which end at trailheads – from there, it’s on foot or bike. It was setting off from one of those points in the McDowell Sonoran Preserve that I battled jet lag, taking a three-hour loop – a beginner’s lesson on the desert, you might say. It’s not the sand-swept, barren landscape one might imagine. Its palette shifts from bruised purples to dusky oranges, and it’s unexpectedly lush. All shades of green burst from the flora as wind bristles the leaves of ocotillo and mesquite trees. The stillness is punctured by little more than the raspy call of cactus wren. At the end of my walk, I know more than I ever thought I would about the desert.
The reward for a morning hike was heading south to the city for a cinnamon roll from The Thumb. Its slogan is heavily tongue-in-cheek: “Just your average gas station”. It’s a barbecue restaurant and wine cellar all wrapped up inside a petrol station and car wash, run by a former surgeon. Rich aromas, courtesy of the meat they smoke in-house, hit you first, but it’s the enormous cinnamon rolls that make it worthy of a stop: a slab of golden, buttery dough in a tight spiral, a gentle crisp on the outside but soft as a pillow inside, the sweet glaze dripping down all sides.
Later that week, I tackled another patch of the desert that covers 100,000 square miles across Arizona, California and Mexico, heading off-road in an all-terrain vehicle (ATV) into parts I was promised “few people ever go”. My newfound knowledge prepared me in no way at all.
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Every rock or dip could be felt rattling through the suspension and up into the steering wheel, rising into my shoulders, my knuckles turning white with tension. Dust swirled as I attempted to tame the ATV as I took blind corners and revved up steep inclines, urging the vehicle – a military-grade Tomcar – to stay under control on the descent. Hurtling into a deep gouge on the track, the wheel yanked 180 degrees anticlockwise with my left hand still gripping tightly, taking my arm with it – and at the time, ripping it out of the socket. Or so I thought; feeling returned after a minute or two. The ATV came off worse, hindering my steering on the drive back to base.
The sore shoulder was tempered by a treatment at the Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale, 20 miles from the city centre, in the foothills of Pinnacle Peak. I’d stayed in one of their casita-style suites but it was a treatment incorporating prickly pear cactus in the spa that soothed off-roading tension.
If any remained, dinner at the hotel’s Talavera restaurant banished the rest. The best seats in this Spanish steakhouse are outside, facing the weathered desert mountainside as you dine on thick cuts of rib-eye or a smoky seafood paella. Imaginative desserts from pastry chef Yudith Bustos top it all off: the brie and mascarpone cheesecake, cosseted in a chocolate shell and paired with figs and honeycomb, was a sweet, creamy highlight. So far, so as promised: this Arizona city is a mix of the outdoors and the indulgent.
It was the centre of town where the other side of Scottsdale – an urban complement to the abundant nature – began to reveal itself. Downtown is a lively jumble of Old West charm and contemporary living, brimming with art galleries and boutique stores, and it’s a compact, easily walkable size. Despite a growing list of hotel options – Caesars Republic Scottsdale, a Grand Hyatt and the Scottsdale Resort and Spa all opened in 2024, with a Ritz-Carlton on the way – I checked into Hotel Valley Ho and followed the Hollywood stars of the past.
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But today, it’s Scottsdale’s food scene that impresses most. At The Mission, chef Matt Carter turns his classic French training to modern Latin cuisine in a place that’s equal parts intimate and casual. Guacamole is made tableside with great theatre, and the hand-made tortillas are borderline addictive. Follow with tacos filled with a rich, succulent pork that’s been slow-roasted for hours.
For something just as easy-going, book a table at Citizen Public House. The place has a delightful, convivial buzz, and you can just as easily pop in for a quick beer as you can stay and linger over a cocktail (The Alchemist, heavy on tequila and pineapple amaro, will knock your socks off). The waitress told me the menu was “new American”; I don’t know what that means (and didn’t ask) but what comes from the kitchen is delicious. A winner is the beef short ribs, cooked in a coffee rub, and served on nutty-sweet parsnip puree alongside a tart cherry BBQ sauce.
I asked Cory Oppold what it was about the region that is behind such a vibrant culinary culture. He’s the award-winning chef behind Course, where he serves playful but elegant tasting menus – everything, from the flavour to the plating, is an art form to Oppold. It’s another place not to be missed in town, especially the brunch, which is all about imaginative twists. When I visited, there were riffs on milk and cereal, and green eggs and ham; more recently, it’s a multi-course interpretation of steakhouse dishes.
He puts major emphasis on the “incredible network of local farmers who provide high-quality, diverse ingredients” to Scottsdale. “While the summer heat can pose challenges for some crops, the state’s varied climates make it possible to source fresh, local produce year-round. This diversity is a tremendous asset for creating dynamic, seasonal menus.”
His sentiments are echoed by Charleen Badman. She is one of Arizona’s most celebrated chefs, named Best Chef in the Southwest at the 2019 James Beard Awards, and her restaurant, FnB, is one of the heavy-hitters in Scottsdale.
“Arizona offers an incredible bounty of produce, supported by hardworking, salt-of-the-earth farmers whose dedication shines through in every dish,” she said.
Whether it’s delicata squash with whipped goat cheese and pecans or grilled spicy broccoli, Badman conjures incredible dishes from even the humblest of vegetables, and places them at the centre of menus – an approach that earned her the nickname “veggie whisperer”.
“Arizona’s agricultural landscape is remarkable, and I’m fortunate to work closely with farmers who are both collaborators and inspiration,” she said. “Their generosity of spirit allows me to serve unique ingredients like Gilfeather rutabagas, romano beans, and spigarello. These relationships are the backbone of my cooking.”
Towards the end of my visit, I kayaked down the Salt River, with the raw expanse that surrounds Scottsdale coming into focus with every sweep of the paddle. It was both a necessary exertion, given the amount I’d grazed on over the week, and a pleasure to reconnect with the rugged outdoors. Amid the calm of the river’s gentle flow, as wild horses lapped water from the shore, I felt that Scottsdale balance again. One side might help me reach an age close to that of a majestic saguaro; the other will ensure I have a lot of fun along the way.
Travel essentials
How to get there
British Airways flies direct from London Heathrow to Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport.
How to do it
You can book guided hiking tours of the McDowell Sonoran Preserve with Cliff Creek Outfitters from $89 (£72) per person, with a two-person minimum. They also offer kayaking tours of the Salt River from $140 (£113) per person, minimum four people; call +1 480 998 7238 for more information; Cliffcreekoutfitters.com
Desert Wolf Tours offers half-day ATV tours from $189 (£153) for adults and $119 (£96) for children; Desertwolftours.com
Where to stay
Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale
This resort blends desert beauty with refined luxury. Check in for spacious adobe-style rooms, an acclaimed spa, brilliant dining, and access to hiking, golf, and desert activities. Fourseasons.com
Hotel Valley Ho
Get an unflinching fix of Americana in buckets, with rooms that pop with colour, vintage furnishings and floor-to-ceiling windows. There’s party vibes beside the pool in this riot of retro boldness. Hotelvalleyho.com
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