Hold on tight!” shouts my driver Matteo as we accelerate into the chaos of rush-hour Rome. Great advice, except I can’t see exactly what to hold on to. As his Vespa lurches forward, my panic rises. As we slice through lanes of traffic, my body is rigid and I struggle to stay upright. “Grab the bar at your side,” he orders, and, sure enough, I find a small chrome rail circling my seat and grip on for dear life.
Navigating a Vespa ride in Rome may not be for the faint-hearted, but if you give in to it, it can be an intoxicating blast. I’m here ahead of the Vespa’s 80th birthday in June, when thousands of Vespa riders will descend on the city’s streets to celebrate the creation of the design classic. I decided to mark the occasion in style by following in the footsteps of Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday. When she played a princess who absconds for the night to discover freedom and romance, the iconic status of the Vespa was sealed.
Driving one by myself seems far too scary, but Vespa Sidecar Tour offers a safer alternative with one of their highly experienced drivers. There’s room for two passengers, one on the back and another in the sidecar, and if you prefer, you can take the trip at night. Vespa Sidecar has teamed up with art’otel Rome, where I stayed, making it easy to arrange a three-hour tour with pick-up from nearby Piazza Repubblica.
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Matteo introduces himself, explaining how he first fell in love with the Vespa in the north of the country, where he grew up. “In Italy you start driving one at 16, and it is life-changing. It’s how you get around, especially if you live in a small town like I did.”
Now he pursues his passion alongside his job as a full-time tour guide. Today, we’ll cover all of central Rome, and hear about its history, with highlights including the Spanish Steps, St Peter’s Basilica and the Trevi Fountain. Also on the itinerary are the Pantheon and the Colosseum, Palatine Hill for panoramic views, and Trastevere for gelato. Matteo starts the engine and I hop on behind.
As I quickly discover, the first rule of adapting to the frenetic motion of a Roman scooter ride is to relax into it. Going with the swerves and slices, rather than tensing up, is the only way to retain your balance and enjoy the experience. Which is lucky, because Matteo suddenly accelerates, leaving the other cars for dust as we cut sharply into a maze of narrow streets.
It’s a heady, immersive way to see the city. I’m close enough to touch the tables spilling out onto the cobbled streets, to smell the haze of petrol fumes, cigarette smoke and espresso, to hear fragments of conversations when we stop at traffic lights. Whizzing around Via Nazionale, I tip my head back and take in the hidden details I’d normally miss – fancy cornicing on the top of buildings; Roman residents gazing down from their ornate balconies and rooftop terraces.
At street level, meanwhile, the city unfolds at speed. Cars honk, drivers gesticulate, a queue of school children outside the Colosseum wave at us, two nuns in Vatican City take our picture. We’re quite a sight, our convoy of four vintage Vespas complete with sidecars, in pretty pistachio, powder blue and yellow.
It’s easy to imagine what a stir they caused when they first hit the streets: an affordable, chic solution to getting around a country ravaged by the Second World War.
The Vespa was designed in 1945 by Corradino D’Ascanio, an aeronautical engineer for Piaggio, and its curvy steel design rapidly became a symbol of urban mobility, style and youth – thanks to films such as Roman Holiday and La Dolce Vita. Both reflected the rise of celebrity culture and the paparazzi, named after Fellini’s character Paparazzo. I can see why they loved the Vespa. Once I’m confident enough to let go of the rail, I can’t stop taking pictures of the scenes around me.
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As we drive over Ponte Garibaldi, the heavens open and the rain is biblical, which somehow adds to the drama and atmosphere. Luckily Matteo has waterproof ponchos, and we carry on regardless. Despite the downpour, I still think it’s one of the best ways to see Rome. Walking is fine but tiring, cycling is too daunting, and the metro only has three main lines.
After several trips here, this is the only time I have a coherent sense of the city’s layout, joining up the dots between the major sights. It also allows you to return to favourite neighbourhoods along the way, such as Trastevere and Monti, and enjoy them at a slower pace.
Back at my hotel in the evening, I sink into my kingsize bed with a Negroni and re-watch Audrey on widescreen TV, zipping around Piazza Venezia, exactly as I did hours earlier. There is undoubtedly more traffic (and more tourists) now compared to when the film came out in 1953. But the energy and spirit of the city remain unchanged – especially when experienced for the first time on the back of a Vespa.
How to do it
Ryanair has flights from London Stansted to Rome Ciampino. Prices from £180 return.
Vespa Sidecar Tour’s three-hour La Dolce Vita tour is priced at £85 per person. Vespa’s 80th birthday celebrations in Rome take place from 25-28 June. For more details, go to the official Vespa website.
Where to stay
The effortlessly stylish art’otel, in the elegant neighbourhood of Sallustio, opened last year. A haven for art lovers, it has a commercial gallery in the basement and groovy sculpted furniture in the lobby. From £260 per night.
Emma was a guest of art’otel
