It’s 4.30pm and I’m still waiting to check into my room at the Hilton Park Lane – 90 minutes past the official 3pm check-in time. I’ve exhausted the chilli crackers, nuts, juice and coffee in the lounge, and am beginning to feel the first flickers of grumpiness. Surely a hotel of this stature can get a room ready on time?
Eventually, someone comes to fetch us. I’m half-convinced they’ve forgotten we exist, but no – far from it. We’re whisked up to the 27th floor and steered down a corridor that, I quickly realise, leads to the Presidential Suite. Assuming we’d be in a regular room, I try (and fail) to hide my delight when we’re welcomed into what can only be described as a sprawling apartment in the sky.
It’s the sort of suite that’s both jaw-dropping and slightly surreal – part diplomatic residence, part influencer backdrop. There’s a long conference table for all your pressing “presidential” affairs, a telescope and a skyline view of London that honestly makes your phone camera feel inadequate. The bed is vast, the carpet plush, the palette all golds, greys and marble. Very tasteful, albeit a little too Molly-Mae for me. A TV that slides out from behind a painting is fun in theory, but less so when it doesn’t offer Netflix, films or internet access. Still, it’s hard to complain when you’ve been upgraded to the top floor.
Before dinner, it’s cocktails at Revery bar, newly refurbished and dressed in low lighting, red velvet and more marble and gold. For Valentine’s, they’ve collaborated with luxury perfume house Kilian on a themed cocktail menu. It’s a bold concept: love potions inspired by fragrance, with ingredients like tonka bean syrup and liquid cream. Some drinks feel more like an olfactory experiment than something to sip – my “Rolling in Love” is a sickly blend of gin, almond milk, amaretto sour and Saint-Germain liqueur that leaves me wondering if I’ve actually just drunk perfume. Still, a pisco sour-inspired number and a very clean martini redeem things. Revery’s regular cocktail offering looks promising; it’s just a short – and slightly tipsy – skip to the Brasserie.
I’m surprised by the value of the menu: three courses form a set selection for just £26 – only £9 more than one of the cocktails I’ve just drunk. The room, also refurbished in late 2023, gleams with lime-green accents, subtle dividers offering privacy and yes, more gold and marble. It’s busy but never noisy, and the staff are attentive without fuss.
Hotel restaurants, long dismissed as last resorts for tired travellers, are slowly reclaiming their place on London’s dining map. Across the city, some are now genuine destinations – from Claude Bosi’s three-Michelin-starred sky-high dining at Brooklands in the Peninsula, to Alain Ducasse’s long-standing three-star stint at The Dorchester, just up the road. Park Corner Brasserie might not reach quite those heights, but its strong execution and accessible pricing place it comfortably in the “don’t skip it” category – especially for guests looking to stay in.
To start, I have beef carpaccio with tapenade, capers and pickled onions – silky and savoury, lifted by tiny croutons that bring just enough crunch. It wouldn’t usually be my first pick, but the short menu nudged me into new territory and I’m glad it did. My guest’s vegan soup of the day is pleasant if not particularly photogenic.
For mains, it’s fish and chips and a duck leg. The former is excellent: crisp, airy batter; piping-hot, salty chips; and a tangy tartare that cuts through everything beautifully. It’s a Hilton-ified version of the classic – neat and grease-free. The duck is cooked to falling-apart softness, but it’s the glossy sauce and whipped buttery mash that steal the show.
We finish with a lemon tart to share, served with sloe gin compote and violet sorbet. This tart is definitely on the tart side, which works for me as a lover of all things zing but could be on the edge for some. It’s clear the kitchen knows what it’s doing. The Brasserie is not claiming to be a restaurant that shakes things up, but one that executes classics well – at a good price, too.
There’s a certain timelessness to the Hilton brand. A century after the first hotel opened, it’s clear this one still has tricks up its sleeve. Yes, there were stumbles – the delayed check-in, the cocktail that smelled more expensive than it tasted – but they were swiftly, and generously, balanced out. With polished service, thoughtful details and a room that made my jaw drop, the Hilton Park Lane proves it still knows how to do old-school glamour – with just enough of the new.
Need to know
Revery Bar and Park Corner Brasserie at London Hilton on Park Lane | 22 Park Lane, Mayfair, London W1K 1BE
Revery Bar opening hours: Sun to Wed 8am-12am; Thu to Fri 8am-1am; Sat 8am-2am
Bookings: 020 74930 8000 or info@reverybarparklane.com
Price: £15-£25 for cocktails; food available
Park Corner Brasserie opening hours: Breakfast 6.30am-10.30am; all-day dining 12pm-10pm
Bookings: Seven Rooms
Price: Set menu, two courses £22, three courses £26
