Grand Hotel Kronenhof is grand inside and out – with beautiful rooms, a huge spa and faultless service – set in a valley with appeal for both winter and summer getaways
Location
Grand Hotel Kronenhof occupies a commanding position above a gorge in the tranquil Swiss village of Pontresina, which lies at an altitude of 5,900 feet in the picturesque, glacier-draped Engadin Valley.
From Zurich Airport it’s a three-hour drive to the hotel, or visitors can take the scenic Rhätische Bahn to Pontresina station, which is a 15-minute walk away, or a five-minute tax ride.
To the west, and visible from many of the rooms and public spaces, including the pool, are the angular ski slopes of St Moritz, just a 10-minute drive or bus ride to the west.
You can also take the train from Pontresina to reach the glitzy resort, a terminus station for the famous Glacier Express, which runs along a separate Unesco-listed line to Zermatt.
An exploration of the village reveals an easy but rewarding hiking trail that winds above the hotel across small ski runs, through woodland where ibex roam and past a 12th-century fairytale chapel, the Burial Church of Santa Maria. The aforementioned gorge is a showstopper worthy of a fantasy film and was smothered in ice during my visit. Two “skywalk” platforms that jut out over the chasm afford knee-trembling views.
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The vibe
Grand Hotel Kronenhof lives up to its billing. It’s grand architecturally, with lashings of Neo-Baroque splendour, and grand in scope – it would take days to explore every nook and cranny.
The property dates to 1848 – the year modern Switzerland was formed – with many of the original decorative features carefully preserved.
One of the most eye-catching spaces is the theatrical main dining room, where ornate frescoed ceilings, gilded mirrors and a grand balcony create a storybook atmosphere.
The sumptuous bar and lobby mesmerise, too. The latter with its dazzling 120-year-old crown-shaped chandelier (a nod to the hotel’s name: kronen means “crown”, and hof “courtyard”), elegant furniture, and vast valley-view windows.
While aesthetically regal and historically intact, Grand Hotel Kronenhof is no museum: this is a warm and inviting place to stay.
Service
The service is world-class — as smooth as the hotel’s outdoor ice rink, and as welcoming as a cosy fireplace. Staff are chatty without being intrusive, and every guest is made to feel like nobility.
They’re marvellously efficient and vigilant, too. During the breakfast buffet, for example, used plates and cutlery are constantly replaced, and it only takes seconds to grab a waiter or waitress’s attention to place an order.
Bed and bath
There are 112 rooms and suites in the Grand Hotel Kronenhof, divided into five categories, ranging from Standard to Suite. Even Standard accommodations come with double sinks in marble en suites and Asprey toiletries. All rooms have a bathtub and shower.
Views are of the courtyard or mountain-framed valley. Our refined Junior Suite Deluxe offered the latter, and an almost residential spec: there was a hallway, living room area with sofa and armchairs, a walk-in closet and a chic bathroom with a rainfall shower and a standalone tub. Bear in mind that the shower and toilet cubicles were partially see-through, which might not appeal to everyone.
The decor is elegant yet understated in layered powder-blue hues, and floor-to-ceiling French doors provide unobstructed views of the Engadin’s mountainous majesty.
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Food and drink
Breakfast is served in the main frescoed restaurant, with coffee arriving in silver pots and a vast array of buffet items available to plunder, plus a la carte options from omelettes to eggs Benedict.
In the evening, “elegant” attire must be worn (suit jackets for men), an old-fashioned rule that in today’s overly casual world I found as refreshing as the smoked marlin carpaccio and celery foam soup.
Ironically, no there’s no dress code for the fine-dining restaurant, Kronenstübli, located in the part of the hotel with the creakiest floorboards. The food is excellent – the black Angus beef fillet a highlight – and the wine premium.
There’s also Le Pavillion (lunch only), set by the ice rink – the pasta here is superb.
Most fun, though, is the fondue restaurant, nestled next to a 1930s 10-pin bowling alley, complete with vintage balls and pins that are attached by string to the reset machine.
The hotel will always find a way of accommodating dietary needs. Freshly baked gluten-free bread is available at breakfast, and symbols by buffet items indicate whether they contain fish or other seafood, or are suitable for gluten-free, lactose-free, vegetarian and vegan diets.
For lunch and dinner, there are plenty of vegetarian and vegan options – from vegan pumpkin gnocchi at the Kronenstübli to vegetable tajine (also gluten-free) in the Grand Restaurant and golden-brown potato “rosti” (also gluten-free) at Le Pavillon.
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Facilities
The spa is the star here; a world unto itself. There’s a 20-metre infinity pool with mountain views, a zone with bubble jets, and a children’s play area with a fountain and slide. Other highlights include saunas, a saltwater grotto, a 34C floating water grotto, and a modern fitness centre.
The hotel also has a locker room for skis and snowboards, and offers a free shuttle service to and from the gondola at nearby Celerina, which is next-door to St Moritz.
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Accessibility
There is step-free access to the entrance and lifts to all floors, but there are no fully adapted rooms.
Pet policy
Dogs of any size are welcome at a rate of around £40 per pet, per night. While dogs are not allowed in all restaurants, they are permitted in the lobby-bar and at the Pavilion.
Check-in/check-out
Check-in is 3pm, check-out is by noon.
Family friendly?
It’s paradise for families. My daughter loved the play pool and there’s a supervised kids’ club stocked with arts and crafts materials, games consoles and table football. Children can also eat together in a dedicated dining room or join their parents in one of the “proper” restaurants, where children’s options are also available.
Other family-friendly touches include a free laundry service for under-12s, kids’ swimming lessons, and a “VIP” wristband that grants them free squash, ice cream and hot chocolate in any restaurant.
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At a glance
Best things: The magnificent decor and the superb spa.
Perfect for: Anyone who feels like treating themselves somewhere discreet.
Not right for: Party animals.
Instagram from: The showstopping lobby lounge or bar, or the infinity pool.
Address: Via Maistra 130, 7504 Pontresina, Switzerland.
Website: www.kronenhof.com.
Ted was a guest of the Grand Hotel Kronenhof.
