Stepping off the catamaran onto Hydra’s ancient harbour feels like entering a living painting – an island caught between myth and a Mediterranean daydream. Unlike the high-energy crowds of Santorini or Mykonos, Hydra is calm, considered and blissfully car-free. On this diminutive island just 75 minutes from Athens, donkeys transport visitors’ luggage, fishermen sit quayside mending their nets, and the island soundtrack features the gentle sound of water lapping the shore and the rhythmic clopping of hooves. This Saronic Island jewel delivers the charm of the Cyclades, without the chaos and crowds.
Even on my fourth visit, Hydra still waves her magic wand. I don’t think I will ever tire of her hidden coves, whitewashed alleyways leading to bougainvillea-bright courtyards and the proud Neoclassical mansions standing testament to the island’s naval history.
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Hydra’s magic is both aesthetic and visceral. A preservation order bans motor vehicles – only an ambulance, fire truck and refuse lorry are permitted. No motorbikes either. All goods, from groceries, building materials and household supplies, are transported by donkeys and mules.
The island is not just quaint; it’s transformative. Hydra has the largest herd of working equines in the world, and the absence of engines lends a softness to life. Animals are relaxed, people are unhurried. Even the cats – Hydra is full of them – are mellow and happy to saunter over for a scratch rather than dash away.
With no traffic noise to contend with, the peacefulness seeps into your soul. I found myself breathing deeper, moving more slowly and absorbing Hydra’s rare, undisturbed energy.
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Artists have long been drawn to its shores, from Leonard Cohen, who lived here and whose song “Bird on the Wire” was said to be inspired by the island, to Jeff Koons, whose 2022 exhibition transformed the Deste Foundation Project Space Slaughterhouse into a sunlit shrine to Apollo. This edgy, seasonal art venue is perched dramatically above the sea, crowned by a massive bronze and copper alloy sun.
For a more traditional side of history, visit the Historical Archive Museum of Hydra near the port. Inside its handsome Neoclassical mansion, I enjoyed the naval paintings and intricate ship models, and pored over handwritten letters that tell the story of Hydra’s vital role in the Greek War of Independence.
While the port’s charms are undeniable, Hydra invites you to explore further. You can saddle up and ride a horse through olive groves, past centuries-old chapels – there are over 300 to discover dotted across the island. You could also charter a boat to circle the island and discover secluded beaches only accessible by sea, or cross to nearby Dokos island to dive among ancient shipwrecks and underwater cliffs.
For a taster of authentic island life, try traditional line fishing experiences aboard wooden caiques run by local fishermen whose families have worked these waters for generations.
As travel fever once again grips popular Greek islands such as Santorini and Mykonos, Hydra offers a compelling alternative. No airport chaos, no hours-long ferry rides, no jostling for the perfect sunset snap. Ferries are expensive throughout Greece, and the 75-minute catamaran ride from Athens to Hydra is no exception, starting from €60 (£50) return. But then you are there, in a place that feels both preserved and alive, chic yet authentic.
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Whether you’re swimming beneath ancient cliffs, sipping wine on a sand-speckled terrace, exploring bold art installations, or simply watching the sunset from the harbour, Hydra has a way of making you slow down, breathe deeper and stay longer.
Yes, Mykonos has pulsing beach clubs and Santorini has its famous sunsets – but Hydra has soul. And that is the Greek island escape I’m chasing.
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How to do it
Where to stay
The five-star Mandraki Beach Resort (from €280 per night) is set on Hydra’s only sandy beach. Tucked into Mandraki bay – a 10-minute water taxi ride from the harbour, transfers provided until 11pm – this former 19th-century shipbuilding yard has been reimagined into a unique escape with just 17 suites decked out with natural materials, original stone archways and soft linens. The real treat is Captain M, the resort’s open-air restaurant, where dishes such as cauliflower couscous salad and seabream with creamed potatoes are seasonal and rooted in Greek tradition with playful modern twists. I enjoyed dinner with a chilled glass of assyrtiko as the sun set over the Peloponnese.
Easyjet flies from London Gatwick to Athens from £90 return; catch the 75-minute catamaran from Athens to Hydra, from €60 (£50) return.
Rebecca Hall was a guest of Mandraki Beach Resort
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