At World Cup matches, fans are increasingly seen not just with national flags and team jerseys, but also with gourd cups and metal straws, sharing sips of yerba mate as they passionately support their teams.
This caffeinated beverage, a cultural staple in several South American nations, has transcended its origins, spreading globally with soccer’s multicultural reach. Its popularity has surged even in the United States, becoming a preferred drink for star athletes both on and off the field.
The cultural phenomenon was evident when Argentina, the reigning World Cup champions, arrived at their Kansas City, Missouri, hotel. Fans gathered outside, pouring and sharing yerba mate from traditional gourd cups, using metal bombillas – the distinctive straws that filter the steeped leaves. Further illustrating its growing appeal, Cafe Corazon, a major Midwest importer of yerba mate, saw a line of fans in sky blue-and-white striped jerseys stretching almost out the door on Monday, ahead of Argentina’s inaugural World Cup match.
Dulcinea Herrera, a co-owner of Cafe Corazon, noted the surge in demand: “Our mate has been flying off the shelves. So a lot of people have been coming in to try it. People who aren’t Argentinian want to just have that experience. And we have a lot of Argentinians coming in saying, ‘Oh, this reminds me of home.’”
The drink’s status is further elevated by its endorsement from many of the World Cup’s most celebrated figures, including Uruguay’s Luis Suarez and Argentina’s Lionel Messi. Messi famously solidified yerba mate’s place in sports lore by posting a photo of himself holding a mate cup in one hand and the World Cup trophy in the other after his team’s victory in 2022.
Mate, your way
From its ancient origins among Indigenous communities and South American gauchos, yerba mate has evolved into a globally savored beverage, with diverse cultures adding their unique interpretations, according to Christine Folch, a cultural anthropologist at Duke University and author of “The Book of Yerba Mate.”
Across regions like Paraguay, Uruguay, Argentina, and Brazil, preferences for mate vessels and preparation methods serve as distinct cultural identifiers. Folch herself boasts an extensive collection of mate cups, ranging from those crafted from cow hooves and horns to intricately hand-stitched, leather-wrapped metal cups and traditional gourds.
The drink’s journey saw it gain significant popularity in Syria and Lebanon during the early 20th century, explaining why traditional dried mate leaves are often found in Middle Eastern grocery stores across the U.S. In the American market, mate is frequently sold in refrigerated cans, marketed as a natural energy drink and infused with fruit flavors. Some Cuban Americans enjoy a sweetened and carbonated version, while in Berlin, Club Mate is a popular carbonated mixer, often combined with alcohol.
Traditionally, the leaves are smoked during preparation, imparting a distinctive smoky overtone alongside its strong grassy, earthy flavor. Many drinkers report that mate provides an energizing boost without the jitters often associated with coffee.
For those looking to order with confidence, the correct pronunciation is MAH-teh, not to be confused with a sports teammate.
Sip and share
Yerba mate, a traditional South American beverage, is more than just a drink; it’s a powerful symbol of connection and community. Often enjoyed in social settings, its communal nature is central to its appeal. “When somebody offers you mate and you accept, what you have done is you have stepped into a relationship. So it’s a way of bonding with people,” explains Folch, highlighting the profound social contract inherent in sharing the brew.
This cultural ritual was evident in Kansas City, where Sebastian Cufre and his Argentinian-born father, Rene, joined fellow Argentina fans at Cafe Corazon, sharing a cup of mate among their tables. Sebastian described the practice as “something that you pass around during the games.” He is quick to distinguish this authentic experience from commercially canned versions. “Honestly, I don’t even consider that to be mate,” Cufre stated, adding, “That’s like a completely different class of beverage.”
Regardless of personal preference, enthusiasts hope North American audiences will embrace yerba mate’s social essence. Whether encountered in a cafe, restaurant, or at a watch party, fans encourage giving the shared cup a chance. Fernando Villagran, originally from Salta, Argentina, and traveling from California to support his team, encapsulates this sentiment: “It’s not only a drink, but a social thing. It is about friendship.”
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