There are three peninsulas that stretch, finger-like, from Thessaloniki, Greece’s second city, into the Aegean Sea. Together they make up the region of Halkidiki, and each has its own flavour. Athos is known for its monasteries and subsequently its pilgrimage routes (though only men can enter the monasteries here), Sithonia is wild and family-friendly, with campsites fronting sheltered beaches and backed by pine forests, and Kassandra historically has had a reputation as a party peninsula, home to a clutch of superclubs and upmarket hotels set along a sparkling, calm coastline.
One such hotel, Domes Noruz Kassandra, has recently undergone a renovation, adding fresh allure to a region well known among weekending Thessalonikians, but relatively unknown to British and other European travellers. Its position, overlooking the calm, crystal clear waters and soft sand of Pallini Beach, is perhaps its trump card. Two hours by car from the airport and a good 45 minutes from the thumping dance music of most of the larger clubs and resorts, you can totally avoid the party people should you choose to.
At the heart of this adults-only hotel is its infinity-edge pool. With its white fabric beds and loungers facing the sea, it’s a serene spot to spend the day sunbathing between treatments in the award-winning SOMA spa and Greek-Italian dishes at Antonino’s (think wood-fired pizzas, dakos salads, cacio e pepe and grilled local fish, all served with local Halkidiki wines.)
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Suppose you want to explore away from the hotel. The peninsula is renowned for its cuisine, with specialities such as Halkidiki olives, spanakopita (a flaky filo pie filled with spinach and feta or kefalograviera cheese), moussaka, and fresh fish.
Just half-an-hour’s drive from the hotel is the popular town of Afytos. With its cobbled streets, souvenir shops and picturesque setting perched high above the sea, it gets a fair amount of foot traffic from locals and tourists alike, so it’s worth booking ahead for popular spots such as Notos cocktail bar, where the sunsets are as legendary as the cocktails, and Thea Thalassa restaurant, where expertly cooked fish and seafood is as fresh as it comes.
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Closer still and much more focused on land-based dishes is Mnēmes, a farm-to-table restaurant in the village of Pefkochori, where rustic solid wood tables are set among ancient olive trees strung with fairy lights, and dinner – slow charcoal-roasted salt-crusted lamb that falls off the bone, chicken souvlaki and giant pans of orzo topped with pulled beef shin are on the menu – is served in the most romantic of settings. Save room for dessert, a decadent smorgasbord of baklava, honey-soaked orange sponge cake and profiteroles filled with rich local cream and drenched in chocolate or honey.
After a day at the hotel, my friends and I took a recommendation from the friendly hotel staff to try out a new venue on the peninsula, a recently opened beach club that had been full since opening, just a few months before our visit. Casa Mercedes wouldn’t look out of place in Ibiza, with its monochrome theme extending from the interiors to the staff uniforms and a trendy menu of sushi, sashimi, tacos and Greek meze accompanied by fine wines from estates across the Peloponnese, Burgundy and Provence.
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A DJ spins tunes on the decks from midday to midnight, and while we were told it gets lively here, on our Sunday daytime visit, the vibe was decidedly laid-back. Showers stocked with luxurious Greek toiletries mean guests can go from beach to club should they wish, or even hire the private space adjacent to the main restaurant, complete with pool, day beds and its own DJ decks.
Back at Domes Noruz Kassandra, and a massage with soothing Elemis products later, we were ready to hop into a taxi bound for Thessaloniki. We flew in from London Heathrow on the very respectably timed 9.05am flight and were eating Greek salad by the sea by 4pm Greek time. Our flight home on a Sunday afternoon meant we’d squeezed in rather a lot of R&R (and delicious, local cuisine) in just 48 hours, and this feels like something of a rarity for a Greek holiday.
While the Greek islands might be on most people’s wish lists, I think I’ve discovered a hidden gem on the mainland that’s perfect for a weekend escape.
Emilee Tombs was a guest of Domes Noruz Kassandra.
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How to get there
British Airways flies from London Heathrow to Thessaloniki, easyJet flies from London Gatwick to Thessaloniki and Ryanair flies from London Stansted to Thessaloniki. The flight time is 3 hours and 20 minutes. Hire a car from the airport or book a taxi for the drive to the Kassandra peninsula.
Where to stay
Domes Noruz Kassandra is a stylish and recently renovated adults-only resort set right on the beach.
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