Small but mighty, Ireland’s County Louth is often overlooked by tourists in favour of Dublin and Galway. But the tiny area has a lot of offer visitors – from breathtaking hikes to a thriving local food scene.
Happily, visitors from the UK can sit down for dinner within five hours of leaving, due to the county’s proximity to Dublin airport. For me, it is the perfect escape whenever London gets overwhelming.
The UK’s capital feels very far away when I spend time here. It’s packed with history and boasts 55 miles of coastline, but County Louth only stretches to 319 square miles, so it’s the sort of place you can get to know every inch of – the antidote to life in a metropolis.
My favourite way to visit is to fly in on a Friday evening. Drogheda, one of Ireland’s largest towns, is only 30 minutes away on the motorway.
From here, I head straight to Scholars Townhouse Hotel, a beautiful, family-run boutique in a former grammar school. They only have 16 rooms, so guests are guaranteed a good welcome.
While dining in a hotel can feel a bit naff, nothing could be further from the truth here – it’s a huge favourite with locals.
Their bar menu is delightful, but I prefer to book a table in the restaurant, which is painted with scenes of the Battle of the Boyne (more on that later). The best thing on the menu? Carlingford oysters, which are caught just up the road.
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The next morning, I typically start my Saturday by getting a coffee at Ariosa, off West Street. Two minutes’ walk away is St Peter’s church, famed for holding the embalmed head of Oliver Plunkett, who was the last Catholic to be martyred at Tyburn in 1681.
The church hosts an annual procession in his honour in July, but be warned: I have a university lecturer who still claims PTSD from the shock of seeing the relic.
The gory history doesn’t stop there. In fact, fans of Oliver Cromwell would do well to keep their opinions to themselves while in Drogheda. The Lord Protector’s most notorious – and murderous – military manoeuvres took place in the town in 1649, at nearby Millmount Fort.
The garrison’s defenders attempted to surrender to the Parliamentarians, but were instead massacred, an event that is memorialised at the site.
History buffs can also visit the Battle of the Boyne site in the Oldbridge Estate, a short distance from the town. Here, there are a number of walks and an excellent information centre, where visitors can learn all about the battle between King William III and his father-in-law, King James II, for the British throne.
It was the largest ever deployment of troops on an Irish battlefield – and those who want to find out more can discover original artefacts, such as weaponry and artillery.
For something less bloody, nearby Clogherhead offers impressive coastal views. After hiking along the headland, reward your virtue with fish and chips on the pier.
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Visitors who enjoy a swim are spoiled for choice: both Clogherhead and Termonfeckin beaches are great options for a bracing dip, while Salterstown offers views of the Mourne Mountains from the sea.
If the water isn’t tempting, head north to Ravensdale Forest park and take a hike among the Cooley Mountains.
For a challenging trek, try the Slieve Foye Loop, starting in Carlingford and ending, after a significant climb, at Strandfield, a cafe in Dundalk. It’s always busy, but that’s testament to the high-quality cooking, focusing on fresh, hyper-local ingredients.
Luckily, Dundalk is the ideal place to spend a lively Saturday night (and a low-key Sunday). For an animated evening head to Mo Chara, a community pub set up by three friends. The food is wonderful, but better still is the beer, which they brew themselves – something that has happened in the town for centuries.
Continue the night at the Spirit Store, a performing arts venue and comedy club. Or explore the town’s thriving music scene – this is the place that made The Corrs, after all. Head to Toale’s, which can get rowdy at the weekends and is where The Mary Wallopers began playing.
If your head is thumping the next day, you’ve done something right. A visit to Blackrock, a charming village on the outskirts of Dundalk, is ideal for a browse of the independent shops and hangover-soothing brunch spots. And then it’s back to the airport, revived by an authentic Irish experience. The wee county certainly packs a punch.
How to do it
Ryanair, Aer Lingus and British Airways fly to Dublin from UK airports.
On arrival, hiring a car is advised, although the area is reasonably well-served by public transport. The 101 bus runs every twenty minutes from the airport and will take you straight to Drogheda.
Where to stay
The Scholars Townhouse Hotel offers well-decorated rooms and a friendly welcome. From £174 per night.
