The translucent, pastel blue water of the Ova da Roseg river gushes over the rocks, as it tumbles from the pristine Swiss Bernina glaciers above Pontresina. My trackie bottoms are rolled up to my knees and I am barefoot. It’s 9am and it’s about 1C.
Our yoga teacher has already waded into the icy, slightly raging, torrent. She is ‘Kneipping’ – a traditional holistic therapy involving paddling in freezing water. The therapeutic practice is named after Sebastian Kneipp – a catholic priest who pioneered hydrotherapy healing. We’ve been warned that no one does Kneipping at this time of day because it’s too cold – even for the Swiss.
Stood ankle-deep in the water, I wonder what all the fuss is about – for ten seconds. And then the burning shock begins. This is a glacial ice-creek.
I breathe in deeply and hop out. I quickly grab a towel and am told to pummel my feet to bring the circulation back. The feeling gradually returns.
And then I get the point of it. There is tingling warmth in my toes which radiates quickly through my entire body. It’s like an adrenaline shot – and puts a zip in my step all day.
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Invigorated, I climb back up the slippery, frosty banks and into the welcoming warmth of the Grand Hotel Kronenhof.
For 176 years, the property has been a glorious fixture of the fairytale Upper Engadin valley, expanding from a humble inn to become a luxurious five-star hotel with 112 rooms and a heavenly spa.
Unlike most high-end hotels, including those in nearby St Moritz, Kronenhof stays open throughout the autumn for visitors to experience the incredible changing seasons – from blazing yellow larch trees to enchanting snow-covered forests.
And while the area is best known for its winter sports and 300 days of unbroken sunshine, the crisp air and pine-scented forests are a perfect tonic for wellness enthusiasts. There are plenty of alternative activities to skiing, which starts early here in mid-November.
Exploring the area
One of the best ways to experience the nearby woodland, is the 1.5-hour magical trek from Pontresina to St Moritz. Or you can cycle too; bikes are easy to hire and are fitted with spikes when there is snow on the ground. The paths are clearly marked, with shallow inclines, and a visual treat at the beautiful calm Lej da Staz. It appears like a giant shimmering mirror reflecting the hillside and sky. It’s still possible to swim here in early November before it freezes over.
View the magnificent Pers and Morteratsch glaciers close-up by journeying to the peak of Diavolezza mountain via a dramatic cable car ride. You can have lunch up here on a sun terrace at the stunning Berghaus restaurant, dining on deer terrine and tagliatelle with wild boar ragu. There is also a charming single-track alpine railway from Pontresina that can take hikers to various stations to start their walks.
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The perfect base
If the weather is dreadful, the spa and restaurants at Kronenhof would be enough to revitalise the most world-weary of souls.
The hotel is led by charismatic general manager Claudio Laager, who grew up in nearby town Samedan and began work as a dishwasher at a hotel in St Moritz. He speaks five languages including Romansh (a local dialect).
He is passionate about nature and personally takes guests on deer watching tours, fire torch walks at night and a snowshoe hike. He is also responsible for the return of snow shovel races held on the hotel’s ice rink.
The vibe is very relaxed. Pets are allowed – even cats. Dogs are pampered with their own room service menu, a selection of dog beds (depending on their size) and a doggie daycare service provided by the concierge. Aside from two of the restaurants and spa, they’re allowed anywhere and appear impeccably behaved. There’s no barking, begging, tugging or yapping during my stay. The wellness mood must be contagious.
Spa essentials
There is a gorgeous indoor infinity pool that looks out to the mountains, framed by a gigantic triple-height curved window. It is especially lovely to drift there in the early morning as the sun creeps over the mountain peaks.
You can also do Kneipping indoors when the river outside freezes over, or the ground is covered in snow. The spa has pools at different temperatures, along with a salt water grotto, stone grotto steam bath, aromatherapy sauna and a flotation tank. Spa treatments range from facials to massages. I have the five senses full body massage and finish with a float in the Jacuzzi, listening to the wind whisper through treetops. Clear crips skies and glistening glacial rivers are the only winter blues you’ll experience in this part of the world.
How to plan your trip
Doubles at the Grand Hotel Kronenhof start from CHF 435 (£385 ); kronenhof.com
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