A renovated 18th-century palace with apartment-style rooms and a prime location in Bairro Alto,plus a rooftop bar and restaurant boasting panoramic views
Location
The Lumiares’ location couldn’t be better. Sitting atop one of Lisbon’s many hills in the buzzy Barrio Alto district, some of the city’s best sights are within easy walking distance. The cobbled streets around the hotel are some of the liveliest in the city, where bars and restaurants line the curbs and revellers soak up the last of the sun well into the evening. One of Lisbon’s famous viewpoints, the Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara, is a three-minute stroll with its terrace offering sweeping views across the city – grab a drink from the bar and watch the world go by. After you’ve taken in the vista, the charming nearby botanical garden is equally worth a visit.
Both iconic images of Lisbon, the yellow tram 28 line starts just outside of the hotel, while the gothic industrial-era Santa Justa lift is 10 minutes down the hill. Walk further down, and you’ll find yourself at the Praca do Comercio plaza with its triumphal arch and waterfront promenade.
The vibe
Once an 18th-century palace, the spacious hotel has been renovated with homage to Lisbon’s character and art scene. From the bespoke sculptural brass chandelier above the grand staircase and the locally sourced art works that line the hotel’s corridors to the mural piece in the restaurant’s staircase, the hotel’s public areas are charming. Geometric patterns and gold detailing throughout nod to the building’s palatial past. But the rooftop bar and restaurant is the hotel’s crown jewel. Small but buzzy, large groups get together over cocktails, families stay for the panoramic view and couples enjoy a sunset Portuguese meal. It’s a sun trap, but a large canopy and cool mist provides happy relief.
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Service
From the welcoming faces at reception to the attentive breakfast service, staff at The Lumiares go above and beyond to help; a staff member successfully helping me scrub red wine out of my white blazer, for example. There’s even a WhatsApp service where you can send requests with impressively quick reply times. Check-in and check-out were smooth, but housekeeping was a little inconsistent; taking places at varying times of the day and neglecting to resupply hair conditioner and toilet roll on one occasion. Similarly, there was no toilet roll in the spa toilets, but staff were quick to restock when it was flagged.
Bed and bath
The 47 rooms at the hotel are apartment-style, complete with fully-fitted kitchens and living areas. The largest three suites are penthouses with panoramic views over the city, but the smaller rooms are still spacious with studio spaces for couples, one and two bedroom suites and high-ceiling mezzanine rooms. While the tapestry bed cushions, wall piece and monochrome headboards elevate the minimalist design, the rooms do lack some of the character of the rest of the hotel.
The kitchenettes are luxurious with appliances from the likes of Smeg and an electric oven, and the white-and-black geometric tiled bathrooms come with Claus Porto toiletries. Designed with longer stays in mind, there’s sofas for lounging and dining tables for eating-in. The mini bar that includes Portuguese snacks, wine, beer and bottled water is completely free, which is a nice touch.
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Food and drink
The Lumi Restaurant offers incredible views across Lisbon on its rooftop. Serving up a varied menu of traditional Portuguese cuisine, try the rich oxtail croquettes, roasted octopus, spicy garlic king prawns and traditional pica-pau. As well as tapas-style dishes for sharing, there are crowd-pleasing classics like a light feta salad, chimichurri sirloin steak and pesto portobello mushroom burger, plus a surprisingly affordable set menu available costing just €12 for a starter or dessert and a main. As for the cocktails, the Lumi’s take on a negroni packs a punch while the “sunset lover” margarita is a holiday-in-a-glass.
Breakfast is also served at Lumi, with the beautiful vista starting the day off nicely. A continental buffet of cheeses, meats, cereals and portuguese staples (think pasteis de nata and bola de Berlim) is served alongside a hot a la carte offering – get the chili omelette or avocado on toast, both hearty portions that set you up for a sightseeing schedule.
Facilities
For a central city hotel, The Lumiares has good facilities that make it appealing for a longer stays. There’s a well-equipped 24-hour gym, as well as a small spa offering a number of treatments that use Portuguese beauty brands (the essential facial is the perfect jet lag pick-me-up). There’s a sauna and steam room in the separate women’s and men’s changing rooms, though they’re very small and you need to book. It’s a shame that spa-goers are split up into each changing area, but the facilities are no extra cost for hotel guests, so are worth taking advantage of.
Disability access
Yes, one room is fully accessible. There is also a lift to the rooftop bar and restaurant.
Pet policy
Pets are welcome for an additional fee of €30 (£25.42). Dogs and cats have a weight limit of 15kg and they must be on a lead in the common areas of the hotel.
Check in/check out?
Check in from 3pm, check out by midday.
Family-friendly?
Yes, the spacious apartment-style rooms are perfect for family stays, with children’s TV channels and child-friendly menus at the restaurant.
At a glance
Best thing: The location – it’s a prime spot for sightseeing and the city’s buzzy night life.
Perfect for: Families and couples on an extended city break.
Not right for: Those craving a pool or lots of outdoor space.
Instagram from: The rooftop bar and restaurant, with panoramic views across Lisbon.
Address: R. do Diário de Notícias 142, 1200-146 Lisboa, Portugal
Phone: +351 21 116 0200
Website: thelumiares.com
