Kevin KeaneEnvironment, energy and rural affairs correspondent, Scotland
Climate change is affecting truffle production in mainland Europe – but scientists believe it is creating the ideal conditions for Scotland to grow one of the world’s most valuable foods.
Dryer conditions on the continent have led to a decline in production, with some scenarios predicting the collapse of truffle farming in Spain within a generation.
Experts from the University of Stirling are growing truffles on the west coast of Scotland and say the change to wetter summer weather provides the perfect environment for the crop.
They say truffles cultivated on the island of Bute are stronger and more aromatic than those from the continent, making them highly sought-after by chefs.
Professor Paul Thomas, an expert in fungus cultivation at the University of Stirling, planted a small row of hazel trees in 2020 in his garden at Ascog on Bute.
The trees were inoculated with the truffle fungus, which was grown on the roots before they were planted. It can take up to seven years for the truffles to form underground.
They are a similar colour to the soil, so require animal hunters to unearth them by tracing their strong scent.
Traditionally that’s been done by pigs, but the handler has to be quick to stop them eating the truffle once it’s been located.
Prof Thomas has been training his dog Rue, who sniffed out the first one this summer.
“Truffles in general, across Europe, are having a very tough time as climate change is advancing and primarily that’s led by declines in rainfall,” he said.
“The models for Scotland, especially the west, are saying slightly wetter summers and maybe slightly milder.”
He said there were many ways in which climate change may have a negative impact in Scotland – but that it created “perfect conditions for truffles”.
He led a team of researchers who produced a paper in 2019 examining the impact of climate change on European truffle production.
It predicted a decline of between 78% and 100% by the end of the century, depending on the level of global warming.
While most countries have pledged to limit warming to between 1.5 and 2 degrees Celsius, the world is not on track to meet that target.
The average global temperature exceeded the 1.5 degree target for the first time in 2024.
Truffles are understood to have grown in Scotland’s ancient woodlands before they were lost centuries ago.
The truffles rely on the roots of the trees for their survival. In the right conditions an orchard could produce up to 20 kilos per hectare.
Truffles currently sell for more than £550 per kilo.
An orchard of around 1,000 trees has been planted on Bute to grow the truffles but it’s unlikely to begin producing a crop for another three or four years.
Prof Thomas says that the high value, low volume crop is ideal to be grown on Scotland’s islands.
The lengthy wait between planting and cropping means there is not a quick return on the investment – but once they start producing truffles, they can continue to do so for up to 40 years.
In recent years truffles have also been cultivated in other parts of the UK.
Lyndsay Jaimeson is business manager at Mycorrhizal Systems, which has been helping growers wanting to branch out into truffles.
She says Scottish summer truffles a strong, earthy aroma which is popular with chefs.
“A lot of chefs will use them in pasta toppings, make sauces. We have one chef who takes damaged truffles and use them for soufflés,” she added.
