Tentatively walking along a steep cliff with two teens while marvelling at the incredible panoramic view, this is motherhood: constantly winging it in the face of sheer wonder. With Mother’s Day a calendar moment often associated with pricey gestures, to me the best gift is pared-back time with my kids. My ideal day consists of a walk along the Northumberland Coast Path, followed by a trip to one of the UK’s largest second-hand bookshops (where you’ll also find the original Keep Calm and Carry On poster).
The Northumberland Coast Path runs for 65 miles from Cresswell to Berwick-upon-Tweed, and my favourite stretch is between beautiful Sugar Sands beach and the picturesque fishing village of Craster. Setting off at the beach car park – which can be accessed by driving through Low Steads Farm, just outside Longhoughton – the sea sparkles and a winding path awaits.
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We start walking the six-mile round trip, and begin catching up about our respective weeks at work and school. Frothy waves meet the sky to our right and the dramatic landscape stretches out in front of us. We pass golden sands, and water that is a completely different shade of blue or grey on any given day.
Howick Bathing House is on the horizon, a listed building constructed in the early 19th century by former prime minister, Charles Grey, the second Earl Grey (who is famous for his signature tea blend). The ancestral residence of the Earls Grey, Howick Hall Gardens and Arboretum, is also nearby. Dating from 1782, here you’ll find a tearoom, woodland walk and pretty gardens to explore.
The simple Bathing House building has a striking presence, and – while it requires advance booking – you can stay at this coastal haven. The house is set by Rumbling Kern, a secret beach within a rocky cove that we stop off at to take a beat.
Beyond this is Cullernose Point, where the cliff prominently juts out. The rock is dolerite, which is part of the Whin Sill formation found throughout Northumberland – from Hadrian’s Wall to Holy Island. You can spot dolphins playing in the sea from here, and we look out in hope of catching a glance.
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We keep walking onwards, with the promise of a cool drink and some chips awaiting us at Craster. The quaint fishing village features a small harbour and is known for its traditional smoked kippers. The L Robson & Sons Ltd smokehouse has been a stalwart for 100 years, and Craster is synonymous with the signature woody scent billowing from this local landmark.
At The Jolly Fisherman pub, we take a seat outside, soaking up the view of Dunstanburgh Castle in the distance. The ruins dating from the 14th century are now owned by English Heritage. It’s well worth a visit to the castle, and tranquil Embleton Bay is just beyond if you continue the path north.
Heading back the way we came, I tempt the kids with a stop off at Barter Books on our journey home. This second-hand bookshop in Alnwick is housed in what was once a Victorian railway station, before it closed in 1968. Barter Books opened in 1991, and charming details – such as a model railway line running overhead and an old waiting room making up part of the cafe – pay homage to its origins.
Speaking of history, the original Keep Calm and Carry On World War Two poster hangs on the wall at Barter Books. Owners Stuart and Mary Manley found the 1939 poster in a box of books bought at an auction in 2000 and put it on display at the bookshop. After visitors commented on its uniqueness, the couple started selling replica posters – sparking the pop culture phenomenon of this being a widespread slogan on everything from mugs to T-shirts.
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As its name suggests, Barter Books works via a swapping system. While books are available to buy outright, you can also have an account collecting credit. Customers bring in books that the team assesses and offers a price for those they’ll accept – this amount then gets added onto your balance to buy others.
We scour the shelves for fresh reading material, get settled in front of an open fire and talk about TV shows, friendships, TikTok trends and everything in between. I’d freeze this moment in time if I could, but I’ve thought that about every stage of being a mum. Grabbing a glimpse of the world through insightful teenage eyes is a privilege to behold. I treasure our time together, the perfect Mother’s Day, and look forward to whatever exciting adventures lay ahead.
