At least, here it is, a global guide to help oval-ball enthusiasts plan the best places to take in a fixture – close to home or thousands of miles away.
Below is a personal top 20 list of rugby venues which this observer would recommend for a visit, subject to the availability of tickets or – in most cases – the (rising) cost of the air fares.
The following lineup is geographically and architecturally diverse, with quirky club grounds and towering Test arenas in all manner of far-flung locations.
Some have been chosen for their striking appearance, or their history, some for their eye-catching surroundings or enticing local attractions, while for others, it is all about the atmosphere to be experienced inside the walls.
On the whole, there has been an attempt to prioritise venues which are primarily used for rugby, but there are glaring exceptions to that rule and, for that, no apology is necessary.
This list leans heavily on traditional names rather than the sponsored ones which can change all too regularly and there is even a nickname to start the roll-call.
It is worth pointing out that there were several fine stadia used in Japan for the 2019 World Cup which would merit inclusion here, but any of those seen first-hand were very much borrowed from football, as a one-off, so they missed the cut.
Anyway, here’s my top 20 – try to make it to as many of these as possible…
‘Cake Tin’ (Sky Stadium), Wellington, New Zealand
New Zealand is not blessed with a vast array of high-end sporting arenas but the Cake Tin makes up for it
It is a smart, circular, waterside landmark just to the north of the city centre; making it easily accessible as well as easy on the eye
The Lions’ epic win over the All Blacks here in 2017 was a pulsating occasion in front of a sea of red shirts
New Zealand is not blessed with a vast array of high-end sporting arenas.
Eden Park in Auckland has improved a lot since a flat-pack expansion for the 2011 World Cup, but it suffers from being in a busy neighbourhood, which leads to transport trouble.
In contrast, the Kiwi capital has this smart, circular, waterside landmark just to the north of the city centre; making it easily accessible as well as easy on the eye.
The Lions’ epic win over the All Blacks here in 2017 was a pulsating occasion in front of a sea of red shirts.
Central Coast Stadium, Gosford, Australia
This choice is as much about the journey as the destination.
Catch the train north from Sydney and put the phone aside for the final stages of the approach to Gosford, to enjoy stunning views of the coastline, blue-water bays and yachts weaving around.
The venue itself is open at the ocean end, aside from a row of palm trees around the scoreboard. It just feels tropical
The Lions lost to Australia A in Gosford back in 2001 on their tour Down Under
This choice is as much about the journey as the destination
The venue itself is open at the ocean end, aside from a row of palm trees around the scoreboard. It just feels tropical.
The Lions lost to Australia A in Gosford back in 2001 and England narrowly escaped an ambush there by the Barbarians nine years later.
Ellis Park, Johannesburg, South Africa
The iconic, highveld stronghold of the Springboks, where they won the 1995 World Cup, leading to Francois Pienaar receiving the Webb Ellis Cup from Nelson Mandela – who was wearing a replica of his No 6 shirt.
Go to Ellis Park in Johannesburg to experience raw, partisan passion
Ellis Park is the iconic, highveld stronghold of the Springboks, where they won the 1995 World Cup
It is a city-centre cauldron of South African fervour and fury, on and off the field
Whatever the commercial naming deal of the day, it will always be Ellis Park. It is a city-centre cauldron of South African fervour and fury, on and off the field, as summed up by a first half onslaught endured there by England in 2012.
It is also where Siya Kolisi made his first appearance as the Boks’ first black captain. Go to experience raw, partisan passion.
Estadio Padre Ernesto Martearena, Salta, Argentina
Full disclosure, this was chosen as the representative from Argentina, with no competing options.
Lions tours always clash with England’s Tests against the Pumas in South America, so trips to games in Buenos Aires, Mendoza and elsewhere are still on this correspondent’s own bucket list.
Salta is a striking location for a game – set in the foothills of the Andes, close to the border with Chile
England’s trips to Argentina always clash with Lions tours
But Salta is a striking location for a game – set in the foothills of the Andes, close to the border with Chile. Take a pre-match ride up a cable car for epic mountain views, then savour the Latin noise and colour in the stands.
Forsyth Barr Stadium, Dunedin, New Zealand
This was one stadium which the 2011 World Cup organisers actually committed the money to build from scratch, as a replacement for the ageing Carisbrook – AKA the ‘House of Pain’.
The new venue is not the biggest, but it is a smart, weather-resistant home for the Otago Highlanders and occasionally the All Blacks, given the presence of a transparent dome roof.
If a sizeable contingent of the local student population fill up one end stand, as is often the case, they will create a decent racket in the south island’s No 1 arena.
The new venue is not the biggest, but it is a smart, weather-resistant home for the Otago Highlanders and occasionally the All Blacks, given the presence of a transparent dome roof
This was one stadium which the 2011 World Cup organisers actually committed the money to build from scratch
If a sizeable contingent of the local student population fill up one end stand, as is often the case, they will create a decent racket in the south island’s No 1 arena
HFC Bank Stadium, Suva, Fiji
There had to be a Pacific-island entry in the top 20 and the Fijian capital narrowly edged out its counterpart in Samoa.
This is one of two grounds regularly used to host Fijian Drua matches in Super Rugby Pacific and the infectiously-enthusiastic home fans have brought a new dimension of energy and exuberance to that event.
They gather in hordes on the grassy banks and have a party, whether their team are winning or losing. For any outsider, a rugby visit to this distant spot is good for the soul.
This is one of two grounds regularly used to host Fijian Drua matches in Super Rugby Pacific
They gather in hordes on the grassy banks and have a party, whether their team are winning or losing
For any outsider, a rugby visit to this distant spot is good for the soul
Kingsholm, Gloucester, England
There aren’t too many Premiership grounds with a strong claim for a place in such exalted company, but this West Country hotbed provides a memorable match-day experience.
Gloucester folk are obsessed by rugby and that much is abundantly clear when the Cherry and Whites are in action in front of their adoring public.
The Shed is the famous terrace which is unsurpassed in English rugby for generating support and hostility in equal measure.
Heaven help any opposition kicker who misses in front of that lot, knowing that the donkey chants will follow.
Gloucester folk are obsessed by rugby and that much is abundantly clear when the Cherry and Whites are in action in front of their adoring public
There aren’t too many Premiership grounds with a strong claim for a place in such exalted company, but this West Country hotbed provides a memorable match-day experience
King’s Park, Durban, South Africa
By the Indian Ocean, the home of the Sharks is another great place to see the world-champion Springboks in action.
It is certainly not a state-of-the-art venue and it is dwarfed by the modern Moses Mabhida Stadium nearby, with its statement arch, which was built for the 2010 football World Cup.
By the Indian Ocean, the home of the Sharks is another great place to see the world-champion Springboks in action
Kings Park has its own raw soul and charm, with a large, grassy parking area which is filled with the aroma of braai cooking on match days
The steep stands on either side provide an intimidating backdrop when full to capacity
But Kings Park has its own raw soul and charm, with a large, grassy parking area which is filled with the aroma of braai cooking on match days.
Once inside, the steep stands on either side provide an intimidating backdrop when full to capacity.
La Defense Arena, Paris, France
This place divides opinion but just go for the sheer novelty factor. It is a remarkable venue for a rugby team; a stadium crossed with a cinema or theatre.
This place divides opinion but just go for the sheer novelty factor. It is a remarkable venue for a rugby team; a stadium crossed with a cinema or theatre
In a high-rise business district to the west of the French capital, this 21st century arena is home to Racing 92. Behind one end of the pitch, an enormous screen fills the space and projects information, footage and graphics before and after games.
Despite being indoors, it is not often at thunder fever pitch, but there is no doubt that it provides a unique experience.
Melbourne Cricket Ground, Australia
Sorry cricket, this one is being pinched by rugby on a short-term loan deal, thanks to a tenuous link provided by the Wallabies v Lions Test there in late July.
Australia is a country awash with well-known sporting venues, but this one is the grandest of the lot, with its 100,000-capacity calling card.
A short, pleasant stroll from down-town Melbourne, outside the stands there are countless statues of cricketing greats, then inside just marvel at the sheer scale of it all – and fall in with the local tradition of a match day meat pie.
A short, pleasant stroll from down-town Melbourne, outside the stands there are countless statues of cricketing greats, then inside just marvel at the sheer scale of it all
Australia is a country awash with well-known sporting venues, but this one is the grandest of the lot, with its 100,000-capacity calling card
Principality Stadium, Cardiff, Wales
Nothing matches it in international rugby. Nothing.
Sure, there have been justified complaints in recent times about matches being spoiled by fans constantly toing and froing to bars and toilets, but when most people are in position and paying attention to the action, the decibel level is off the chart.
Nothing matches the Principality Stadium in international rugby. Nothing
Arrive early to watch the coaches arrive and crawl through the raucous throng on Westgate Street. What a place
When most people are in position and paying attention to the action, the decibel level is off the chart
Being inside when the roof is shut and Wales are taking the fight to England is a life experience not to be missed.
Arrive early to watch the coaches arrive and crawl through the raucous throng on Westgate Street. What a place.
Ravenhill, Belfast, Ireland
Back in the distant days when the European Cup was truly European and even the pool stage was laden with tension and jeopardy, this was one of the stand-out grounds to sample the tournament’s competitive energy.
So many fine teams turned up on a Friday night and could not cope with the reception on the field and in the stands, amid an out-pouring of provincial pride.
In some cases, atmosphere needs to be falsely engineered. This is not one of those places.
If Ulster are on a roll, watching them at home is a spine-tingling experience.
If Ulster are on a roll, watching them at home is a spine-tingling experience
So many fine teams turned up on a Friday night and could not cope with the reception on the field and in the stands
Reale Arena, San Sebastian, Spain
It used to be called Anoeta Stadium, before a redevelopment project between 2017 and 2020, but this focal point of Basque sporting fervour is all shiny and stylish these days.
Even before the upgrade, Biarritz would use it as a home from home and that allowed rugby visitors to sample the delights of a charming, seaside city which is a renowned gastronomic hotspot.
Bayonne recently took a Top 14 match over the border and if they repeat that venture in future seasons, it would be a prime excuse to head to this part of northern Spain.
Biarritz would use the Reale Arena as a home from home and that allowed rugby visitors to sample the delights of a charming, seaside city which is a renowned gastronomic hotspot
Bayonne recently took a Top 14 match over the border and if they repeat that venture in future seasons, it would be a prime excuse to head to this part of northern Spain
Stade Mayol, Toulon, France
Let’s be clear – there are many better grounds than this in French rugby.
It has tiers of concrete steps and basic plastic seats. Access is cramped and chaotic. But ignore all that practical stuff, because game day here is a sensory overload.
The Toulon team’s entry from the main road, opposite the vibrant marina, is a show-stopper experience, then the mood is set by the famous ‘Pilou Pilou’ pre-match chant, led by a man on a mic covered in facial tattoos.
At the end, if the hosts are winning, prepare for a newspaper avalanche in the stands.
The mood is set by the famous ‘Pilou Pilou’ pre-match chant, led by a man on a mic covered in facial tattoos
At the end, if the hosts are winning, prepare for a newspaper avalanche in the stands
Stade Marcel-Deflandre, La Rochelle, France
One of the best rugby towns in France, if not the world, has developed a crazy obsession with the sport.
At the last count, ‘Stade Rochelais’ had sold out almost 100 successive Top 14 matches.
Being able to see a game there might require breaking and entering, but it would be worth the risk of punishment to witness the flag-waving frenzy, in a sea of yellow and black.
Watch them hero-worship the likes of Uini Atonio and Will Skelton, then enjoy sunset dinner and drinks in the beautiful, historic harbour area.
One of the best rugby towns in France, if not the world, has developed a crazy obsession with the sport
Stade Marcel Michelin, Clermont Auvergne, France
The original ‘Yellow Army’ are one of the most loyal and passionate supporter groups in club rugby.
When their team have been in showpiece finals abroad, they have filled Place de Jaude in their tens of thousands.
And when Clermont are at home, their ground – next to the Michelin factory – epitomes the spirit of Gallic rugby, with all the giant flags and thunderous chants of ‘ici, ici, c’est Montferrand’ on repeat.
The city can be hard to reach but it is well worth the effort, for a sporting weekend.
The city can be hard to reach but it is well worth the effort, for a sporting weekend
The original ‘Yellow Army’ are one of the most loyal and passionate supporter groups in club rugby
Stade Velodrome, Marseille, France
Strictly speaking, this belongs to football, but rugby makes good and regular use of it too, so its inclusion in this top 20 is justified.
Since a major revamp, it is a stunning venue, with its high, curving stands and glimpses of the nearby mountains through gaps at the corners.
There were some early teething problems when it was used at the last World Cup – with alarming crushes at entry points – but those were resolved for later fixtures.
A match at Stade Velodrome and an evening in the city’s Vieux Port is a jackpot combination.
Since a major revamp, it is a stunning venue, with its high, curving stands and glimpses of the nearby mountains through gaps at the corners
Strictly speaking, this belongs to football, but rugby makes good and regular use of it too, so its inclusion in this top 20 is justified
A match at Stade Velodrome and an evening in the city’s Vieux Port is a jackpot combination
Suncorp Stadium, Brisbane, Australia
So many of the multi-purpose stadia Down Under are configured for cricket, which means they are oval-shaped, creating big distances between sidelines and stands when rugby is on.
Not here. This is a tight rectangle and all the better for it.
The Wallabies have a decent record in the state capital of Queensland and it is no surprise, as their fans are crammed in around them and usually noisy
So many of the multi-purpose stadia Down Under are configured for cricket, which means they are oval-shaped, creating big distances between sidelines and stands when rugby is on. Not here
The Wallabies have a decent record in the state capital of Queensland and it is no surprise, as their fans are crammed in around them and usually noisy.
It is possible to walk to a match from the city centre and there are plenty of food and drink options along nearby Caxton Street.
Renditions of The Fields of Athenry and Stand Up and Fight still stir the blood at Thomond Park
Nowadays, it has a capacity of almost 26,000 and the stands at the sides are impressive, but there is a pang of nostalgia for what the ground was before
Back in the day, at every Heineken Cup match, the official attendance was 12,000 – which was the permitted threshold – but there must have been 50 per cent more people actually present
Thomond Park, Limerick, Ireland
Nowadays, it has a capacity of almost 26,000 and the stands at the sides are impressive, but there is a pang of nostalgia for what the ground was before.
Back in the day, at every Heineken Cup match, the official attendance was 12,000 – which was the permitted threshold – but there must have been 50 per cent more people actually present.
Kids would take it in turns to distract the police and climb over the walls to watch their heroes.
Renditions of The Fields of Athenry and Stand Up and Fight still stir the blood.
England’s best-supported club have had their ups and downs in recent years, but when their ground is full, it gives them an imposing advantage
Those gathered on the Crumbie Terrace provide a vocal, unapologetically one-eyed view of proceedings and the noise spreads around all parts when the Tigers are on the charge
This entry gets in on account of the sheer scale of the local following
Welford Road, Leicester, England
Another Premiership entry, on account of the sheer scale of the local following.
England’s best-supported club have had their ups and downs in recent years, but when their ground is full, it gives them an imposing advantage.
Those gathered on the Crumbie Terrace provide a vocal, unapologetically one-eyed view of proceedings and the noise spreads around all parts when the Tigers are on the charge.
Another familiar feature is the gathering roar as the home team clatter down the steps from the tunnel and on to the field. There’s even a hotel next door now.
