The Athens Riviera shines in the distance as I take the helm of a Star Clippers tall ship, the fate of 2,289 gross tonnes and hundreds of passengers and crew in my hands.
This isn’t a video game or ship simulator. The helmsman aboard Star Clipper – one of three tall ships in the Star Clippers fleet – had actually asked if I fancied a turn at steering during a week-long Greek island cruise.
As I stand by the steering wheel, which I am assured actually works and isn’t just for decoration, the patient crew member shouts at me to ensure I keep travelling in the correct direction, occasionally calling out “midship,” which I soon learn means to keep it straight.
It’s like being back in driving lessons, but this time there’s no curb to mount. Just the Aegean Sea, stretching endlessly in every direction.
It feels a long way from the megaships I am used to.
The bridge, where the crew steers the ship, is usually a sacred space, reserved for the captain to navigate the high seas in peace – without the camera flashes of passengers.
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But as the cruise director Peter Kissner aboard our Star Clippers sailing says on our first evening: “Forget everything you know about cruises.
“This is not a cruise, this is a sailing voyage.”
You won’t find a casino, waterslide or robot bar on board a Star Clippers ship.
Star Clipper is a four-masted barquentine – a modern-day recreation of the 19th-century clipper ships that once ruled the seas. Wooden interiors gleam throughout, portraits of tall ships line the walls and even the carpet is patterned with ropes and knots.
Boarding feels pretty old school as I hand over my passport for a room key rather than a digital card and write my name on a paper sheet for excursions.
Instead of West End shows and karaoke, we pass the time by learning how to tie knots and singing sea shanties by the piano.
The ship is compact at 360ft from bow to stern, carrying up to 170 passengers. That is a far cry from the 248,663 gross tonne megaships such as the new Star of the Seas, which can carry 7,600 guests.
But what Star Clipper lacks in size, she makes up for in majesty.
The ship has an engine but aims to use its sails for up to 80 per cent of a voyage, depending on the schedule and weather.
Each journey sees 16 sails unfurl to the rousing tune of Vangelis’s Conquest of Paradise from the soundtrack of the Ridley Scott film 1492. It makes you feel like the star of an epic film.
There was even a chance to channel my inner Jack Sparrow by climbing the mast up 80ft to the crow’s nest.
As cruise ship attractions go, this was one of the most exhilarating, with just a rope ladder swaying in the wind and a harness between me and the sea. I climbed higher – not in search of treasure, but for the reward of feeling like a Greek god as I enjoyed the unrivalled views.
The adventures onboard don’t just go upwards, they go sideways. Passengers can climb over the side of the ship to stand and pose on netting, known as bowsprit nets.
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You really sense the bounce of the ship on the water as you lie back, feeling as if you are flying (while hoping the knots are secure enough to hold you for the time it takes to grab a selfie).
Beyond steering, selfies and scaling the sails, another benefit of small ship cruising is the ability to visit more intimate destinations.
Smaller ships such as Star Clipper can reach the places that larger vessels – or “monster ships” as our cruise director calls them – can’t get to.
Even the marine life seemed impressed by the ship. A pod of dolphins guided us into the Greek island of Patmos one morning, taking centre stage from the 6am sunrise.
As we stepped onto the shore, I was handed a ticket to the Apocalypse. It turns out this isn’t a comment on US foreign policy but a part of an excursion to the grotto of Saint John.
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It is in this cave-turned-chapel that John is believed to have written the Book of Revelations, while he was exiled from by the Romans for preaching about Jesus.
More Bible stories and ancient artefacts awaited us as we sailed 49 nautical miles around the North Cyclades to Amorgos, where a new challenge awaited – a 269 step climb to the glistening Byzantine monastery of Hozoviotissa – the second oldest monastery in Greece.
It was a challenge in the heat and I expect the two monks who live in the cliffside monastery struggle with deliveries. But it is worth the 25-minute climb to see perfectly preserved chapels dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
A visit to another island, Spetses, was far less strenuous. This small seaside town, with a population of around 3,800, can only fit the tiniest shops. It appears to be Greece’s best kept secret, with locals taking three-hour ferries from Athens to reach its sandy bays.
It feels like Greece’s answer to Sandbanks in Poole, but with better food such as sticky baklava. There are cheaper taxis, too – the island is best explored via a €20 (£17) horse-drawn carriage.
Star Clipper doesn’t skip the main attractions of the region. Our itinerary included visits to Kusadasi in Turkey, to visit the ruins of the ancient city of Ephesus, as well as a stop at popular Mykonos.
Unlike the so-called monster ships, getting off a smaller vessel is faster as you aren’t queuing with thousands of passengers.
It is harder to avoid the crowds on land though, especially at Ephesus. We arrived and disembarked early to beat the heat – only to find that everyone else had the same idea.
We found a quieter alternative in Delos, just a half-hour ferry ride away during a visit to Mykonos.
Similar to Ephesus, it is a Unesco World Heritage Site but it appears to be unfairly overlooked by tourists. Even the cruise excursions from the bigger ships seem small but those who have stayed on Mykonos or even on their ships are missing out.
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There are no residents and only a gift shop and vending machine that serves water, giving it a unique peacefulness.
Delos is considered the birthplace of Greek gods Artemis and Apollo, adding to its aura. This is enhanced by a row of pristine statues of now-extinct Eurasian lions, all providing a sense of grandeur.
The island feels like a better-preserved Pompeii, making it easy to imagine life among the almost-pristine winding staircases and mosaic floors.
It’s a long way from the party scene of Mykonos. We see the island roaring to life as we depart on a windy evening. The ship rocks and confuses the eyes as the angle of the horizon quickly changes.
The crew are valiantly playing tug-of-war to get the sails in the right position, but it’s like the gods are trying to pull us back. I’m just happy that I don’t have to steer.
How to do it
Star Clippers offers a variety of Mediterranean itineraries, including week-long Greek island voyages departing from Athens or Istanbul. Prices start from £1,893 per person based on two adults sharing. This includes a 10 per cent early booking discount valid until 31 January 2026.
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