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Home » Adams Morgan: What to do and where to eat in Washington DC’s art-filled, anti-establishment neighbourhood – UK Times
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Adams Morgan: What to do and where to eat in Washington DC’s art-filled, anti-establishment neighbourhood – UK Times

By uk-times.com10 March 2026No Comments7 Mins Read
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Adams Morgan: What to do and where to eat in Washington DC’s art-filled, anti-establishment neighbourhood – UK Times
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Simon Calder’s Travel

Although Washington DC may be revered for its grand historical monuments and political buildings that line the National Mall, the real magic of the city lies in its neighbourhoods.

Here among the city’s communities, you’ll find the soul of a city that houses a rich blend of cultures alongside political ambition and architectural wonder. While there are plenty of intriguing DC neighbourhoods – from the cobblestone streets of Georgetown to the buzzing bars of Dupont Circle – for me the best place to base yourself in the US capital city is Adams Morgan. My last visit was during late summer of 2025 and Adams Morgan felt alive with a spirit of resistance and resilience, despite the ominous presence of the National Guard through the city.

This is a neighbourhood that has seen its share of turmoil and fiercely its creative, anti-establishment vibe. It has largely resisted any chains or large brands, and thanks to its numerous immigrant populations that have moved in and out through the generations, there is a wealth of cuisines to be enjoyed.

The neighbourhood is just over two miles from the Mall so it’s a convenient place to base yourself to see the main tourist sites like Capitol Hill, the Lincoln memorial and the Smithsonian Museums. But there is plenty to do within the neighbourhood itself, and this is where I’d start.

The mural on the side of the Madam's Organ Blues Bar has been there since 1997

The mural on the side of the Madam’s Organ Blues Bar has been there since 1997 (Annabel Grossman/The Independent)

Read more: I took a food tour of Koreatown – one of LA’s most exciting districts

What to do

Explore Malcolm X park

Although officially named Meridian Hill Park, most Adams Morgan residents will know the 11 acres running along 16th Street as Malcolm X Park. It’s in need of a little TLC – it’s got a sort of crumbling, neglected charm to it – but this park serves as an important meeting area for the community, and is home to a number of quirky landmarks. Here you’ll find a bronze statue of James Buchanan, who holds the rather dubious accolade of being the United States’ worst president (as hard as the incumbent tries to take the title) thanks to his failure to avert the American Civil War, as well as Washington DC’s only female equestrian statue, Joan of Arc.

Every Sunday at 3pm there is a Drum circle, a beloved tradition that has been going on for decades – the first one occurred after the assassination of Malcolm X in 1965, featuring just a few drummers, and over the years it has developed into a family-friendly celebration of the community with dancers, musicians and all types of creatives.

Malcolm X Park hosts a drum circle that started in 1965 and has become a weekly fixture

Malcolm X Park hosts a drum circle that started in 1965 and has become a weekly fixture (Annabel Grossman/The Independent)

Take a tour

I’m not usually a fan of organised city tours, but Carolyn Muraskin and her team at DC Design Tours do a remarkable job at sharing the fascinating history, secret architectural gems and pockets of culture that make Adams Morgan such a special place. As well as Meridian/Malcolm X Park mentioned above, on the “16th Street & Adams Morgan: Elegance Meets Edge” tour you’ll also wander down Columbia Road, explore Embassy Row and hear the story of the Freedman community who built their homes here after the Civil War. It’s two hours long, 1.5 miles in length and family-friendly – a great introduction to the area.

Admire the arts

The best way to experience art in Adams Morgan is to simply wander around the neighbourhood. There are a number of established pieces on building walls, such as the mural on the side of the Madam’s Organ Blues Bar that has been there since 1997, and Mural Un Pueblo Sin Murales painted by immigrants from Latin America on the side wall of Kogibow Bakery in 1977 and brought back to life in 2005.

It’s also worth making time to stop in at the DC Arts Center on Columbia Road. This is a small and intimate space (last time I visited I was the only person there), with a rotation of exhibitions showcasing works from underrepresented artists.

The DC Arts Center is a cosy space with rotating exhibitions

The DC Arts Center is a cosy space with rotating exhibitions (Annabel Grossman/The Independent)

Read more: An LGBT+ guide to Chicago

Where to stay

The Line

Situated in the heart of Adams Morgan in a former neoclassical church built over 100 years ago, The Line is chic, arty and ever-so-cool. The rooms are decked out in an industrial-chic vibe and much of the decor is vintage – think brass fixtures, printed bedspreads and work from local artists on the walls. The restaurant/bar No Goodbyes serves excellent coffee and house-made pastries, and is also a great place to grab a cocktail in the evening. Rooms start at £171.

Generator

The Washington DC Generator is actually just outside of Adams Morgan, but within easy walking distance of the neighbourhood, as well as being right on the edge of Dupont Circle. Private rooms start at £106 while a bed in a dorm room is a little over £50. There’s a pool, cafe, gym, and pleasant terrace for drinks and socialising.

Where to eat and drink

Lapis and Lapop

A gorgeous spot on the corner of Columbia and Mintwood Place, this family-run Afghan bistro is headed up by Chef Shamim who first came to the US in 1987 as a refugee and makes dishes inspired by the foods of her childhood. Tucked below Lapis is Lapop, a cosy little speakeasy-type space, serving a rotating cocktail menu. On Tuesdays between 5pm and 7pm, take along your favourite vinyl for Mixtape night when the bar staff will play (almost) anything that’s offered up.

Lapis is known across the city for its excellent Afghan dishes

Lapis is known across the city for its excellent Afghan dishes (Annabel Grossman/The Independent)

Read more: How New York’s immigrant communities built a culinary capital

Elfegne

Washington DC has a large Ethiopian community, much of which is centred around Adams Morgan. As a result, the neighbourhood boasts arguably the best Ethiopian restaurants in the States. Try Elfegne for sambusas, kitfo and vegetable stew, washed down with an Ethiopian craft beer.

El Tamarindo

Salvadoran/Mexican restaurant El Tamarindo has been around since the 1980s, serving inexpensive yet delicious pupusas, empanadas, tacos and margaritas in a relaxed setting.

Tryst

Tryst is something of a neighbourhood institution; since 1998 it’s offered a laid-back, eclectic space with local artwork adorning the walls, comfy sofas to kick back on and very friendly service. On the menu are huge sandwiches, house-made pastries and locally roasted coffee served with a side of animal crackers.

So’s Your Mom

A favourite among locals, this old-school deli on Columbia Road is known for its fresh bagels, as well as hearty sandwiches thickly stuffed with fillings – all for very reasonable prices.

Cana

Bar Cana is a cosy underground spot that opened just a couple of years ago, serving excellent caipirinhas alongside classic Brazilian dishes with a twist in a cosy retro space.

Lost City Books has a great selection of pre-loved books, including rare editions

Lost City Books has a great selection of pre-loved books, including rare editions (Annabel Grossman/The Independent)

Where to shop

Lost City Books

Lost City Books welcomes all types of readers to wander among its shelves of second-hand, new, and rare books. It’s an inviting space with a fiercely independent, anti-establishment feel, and in the summer spills out onto the pavement in front.

Urban Dwell

This cute little boutique store is veteran-owned and independent, selling everything from home decor to kitchen utensils, books and stationery. It’s a great place to pick up gifts or just have a browse as you walk down Columbia Road.

How to get there

A number of airlines including British Airways, Virgin Atlantic, and United fly direct from the UK to Washington DC. Flight time is around 8 hours 30 minutes.

Annabel’s trip was supported by Destination DC.

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