Turn right onto the Avenida Belgrano in Buenos Aires and you cannot miss the 35-metre-tall mural of Lionel Messi.
A few hundred yards further down the road, outside the Ministry of Defence, there is a modern tribute to those who lost their lives in the Falklands War.
‘Malvinas nos une,’ it reads, reinforcing how the country is united behind those who lost their lives in the colonial battle with the British.
In the administrative part of the city, the white-collar workers offer diplomatic answers about Wednesday’s World Cup semi-final against England.
‘England are a very disciplined team but France will be the toughest opponent,’ says a man on his lunch break. ‘The rivalry, it’s only football. Of course we expect Argentina to win, we have the greatest player of all time.’
But head into the vibrant district of La Boca, where Diego Maradona played in the 1980s and 90s, and mutiny fills the air.
Daily Mail Sport’s Nik Simon poses alongside a Diego Maradona lookalike, who clutches his own World Cup trophy
Almost every store in Caminito sells Argentina jerseys – some more authentic than others
‘It’s important for Argentina to win because of the Malvinas (Falkland Islands),’ says Milagros, who works in a cafe dedicated to Maradona
‘It’s important for Argentina to win because of the Malvinas,’ says Milagros, who works in a cafe dedicated to Maradona.
‘There’s a lot of anger about what happened. It’s painful to think about. It’s taught in schools and we are always remembering the people that died. For Diego, for Malvinas, for Leo’s last dance… it’s a very popular song here. Everyone is singing it in the bars and the pubs.
‘Football is everything to us. I’m pretty nervous. Argentina almost lost a few times. I watch the games with my parents and we are always suffering when we watch. It is stressful.’
The city newspaper, La Prensa, ran the Monday headline: El cansancio, otro rival a vencer. Tiredness, another rival to overcome. Argentina have laboured their way through to the semi-finals, with a series of late victories, which have not been easy watches for the locals.
It is impossible to escape football in these parts. Miniature monuments of Messi, Maradona and the Pope line the streets. I was charged 20,000 pesos – around £10 – for a photograph with a Maradona lookalike who told me that his team are low, but God is on their side.
Everything from chocolate bars to crisps packets to alfajore biscuits are packaged in the blue and white colours of Argentina. Fancy a World Cup pizza? La pizza del mundial has got you covered; double layered, served with extra hot sauce and a picture of Messi.
Almost every store in Caminito sells Argentina jerseys – some more authentic than others. ‘Right now it is Messi, Messi, Messi,’ says Edgar, who runs one of the stores.
‘Messi is as popular as Maradona but he’s not as loved as Maradona. Maradona inhaled a lot of s*** and lived a wild life. He was a genius but he was a rebellious guy in society, too.
It is impossible to escape football in these parts where miniature monuments of Messi, Maradona and the Pope line the streets
‘Messi is as popular as Maradona but he’s not as loved as Maradona. Maradona inhaled a lot of s*** and lived a wild life. He was a genius but he was a rebellious guy,’ says a store worker
‘The common Argentinian man is more like Maradona. We work, we do stupid things. Messi is a very decent man but he is more like Pele. No trouble, no scandals.
‘The hand of God was made in 1986. Maradona remains in spirit in Argentina. Hopefully history comes back this week. It’s Messi’s last World Cup and we want him to win it.’
Hundreds of thousands will head out onto the streets of Buenos Aires to watch Wednesday’s match at 4pm local time. The winter chill will not stop them. Many feel like they have old scores to settle.
