Six-foot-tall glowing tentacles snake through Aberdeen’s Broad Street, wrapping tightly around the city’s famous Robert the Bruce monument. Their multicoloured limbs glow against the heavy, onyx sky above Marischal Square. It’s February in North East Scotland, and it doesn’t get much more dreich than this.
These installations and displays from Spectra, Scotland’s Festival of Light, are the only beacon on this wintry night, before darkness descends again – and it’s time to coorie down (or snuggle) with a good book.
When it comes to reading, tales of gruesome murders and unsolved disappearances against the bleak backdrop of the city are at the heart of Aberdeen’s Granite Noir. The literary crime festival has also become a must in the Scottish calendar, and this year it celebrates its 10th anniversary on 17-22 February.
An unsung destination, Aberdeen is often overlooked. Many travellers only use it as a pit stop while driving the scenic 516-mile North Coast 500 road trip, or to visit Dunnottar Castle.
Yet, for those who stick around, the reward is priceless. From its miles of beautiful beach, maritime celebrations and the summer’s Highland Games, to internationally-acclaimed festivals like Spectra and Granite Noir during the winter, Aberdeen offers year-round thrills.
Culture and heritage to explore at your own pace
A city with a strong seafaring heritage and industrial past, Aberdeen has a unique blend of maritime charm and urban delights. Walk through the former fishing village of Fittie (at the southern end of the beach) to see granite huts and quirky features – ranging from fishing nets and gull sculptures to sea-glass stars and other trinkets.
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It’s also right next to one of my favourite restaurants, The Silver Darling, which serves fresh seafood from a glass-walled tower. From here you can also spot dolphins (local tip: the best time is between 11am and 2pm).
You’ll discover more about the city’s past at the Maritime Museum, where a majestic glass front in a ship-shaped room gives you the best views of the harbour. Aberdeen’s affair with the North Sea is still going strong today. Not only has the city seen a new wave of cruise tourism post-pandemic, its success was further bolstered by the Tall Ships Races in summer 2025, which welcomed almost half a million people.
During the five years I called Aberdeen home, the Maritime Museum and its sister location Aberdeen Art Gallery were my favourite haunts. The latter has one of the vastest collections in Scotland, and – once again – a splendid rooftop to observe the granite peaks and towers of the city centre.
Although this is a city known for its windy spells, Aberdonians really do love a rooftop. Watch a play in His Majesty’s Theatre and treat yourself to a pie with a view (don’t worry, the roof terrace is covered). Many Granite Noir events are hosted here. Authors Denise Mina, Ian Rankin, Stuart MacBride and Val McDermid are among the big names previously featured at the festival.
“Winter is a great time to explore Aberdeen’s contradictions,” says Ben Torrie, director of programming and creative projects at Aberdeen Performing Arts. “Back to back, you have a festival of light and a festival of darkness, if you think about Granite Noir’s subject matter.”
Those contradictions ripple out in the social fabric of the city, made wealthy by decades of oil extraction in the North Sea, and now trying to rebrand itself as a capital of renewable energy.
But it’s not all doom and gloom. To wash away those winter blues with delectable wines and an award-winning tasting menu, make a dinner reservation at Moonfish Cafe. Found in an alley off the city centre, it has a unique view of the Gothic spires of the ‘Mother Kirk’, St Nicholas. You can expect scallops, venison, and cocktails celebrating local ingredients galore.
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Embracing community and culinary excellence
To counteract the icy breeze, there is nothing better than a hot, carb-filled meal. From my dwelling at The Chester Hotel, I walk down to The Bread Guy. This is an award-winning bakery and social enterprise focused on providing inclusive opportunities, supporting adults with learning disabilities through training and employment. The perfect place to tuck into a lunch of soup, a delicious sourdough sandwich and a hot drink, you’ll devour it all for under a tenner.
Interestingly, the Bread Guy is just one example of many community projects in Aberdeen, with the latest being dolphin sanctuary Greyhope Bay.
After lunch, my ideal afternoon is spent walking through the University of Aberdeen’s breathtaking campus, with its 15th-century King’s College. I may be biased, as I spent my undergraduate days ‘preparing’ for my exams in there, but I can’t go back without paying a visit to St Machar Bar. This hidden gem is just off the cobbled high street. Here, punters young and old mingle in the cosy, rectangular pub sandwiched between a vintage mirror wall and a whisky bar packed to the rafters.
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The city is proud of its foodie character, and you can see this in the area’s culinary enterprises. Inside the granite vaults once used by fishermen, the City of Aberdeen Distillery offers sampling and make-your-own-gin tours from £35. This is a bargain when you factor in the generosity of its two owners, and their eagerness to spill all the secrets – and their best tipples straight into your glass.
To give you the broadest taste of why Aberdeen has something for everyone, pick up a free trail map or enjoy a walking tour led by locals. I am not saying the Doric (local dialect) vocabulary you’ll absorb will serve you for life. But it will at the very least be useful as you navigate the former university campus in Marischal College, the rainbow-clad Shiprow, and the dizzying amount of murals making Aberdeen the widely-considered street art capital of Scotland.
At the end, you will want to put your feet up by a cosy fire and have a hearty meal in Café Bohème, a beloved French bistro in the heart of town. This is the perfect place for a last bite, as it’s just a five-minute walk from the train station.
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I have a ritual before leaving my former home. I head to my favourite bakery in the world, Bandit Bakery, to savour the world-class cinnamon buns (vegan, like all its bakes). Then, as I’m whisked off on the train heading south – following the most breathtaking coastal route in the country – I start counting the days until I’m back again.
How to do it
LNER runs daily direct rail services from London to Aberdeen. Fares start at £58 for a one-way ticket, with a seven-hour journey time.
Where to stay
The Chester Hotel is a good base if you want a taste of the fancy, residential West End, with its French-style boulevard Queen Road and typical, slate-roof granite houses. Doubles start at £117.
Rory’s trip was supported by Visit Scotland
