If you’ve reached an age where your skincare routine is heavily focused on anti-ageing ingredients, then chances are you’ve heard of retinol. If you’re familiar with retinol then you might also know about retinal, retinol’s stronger cousin.
Both retinol and retinal are derivatives of vitamin A, meaning that they work to boost cell turnover, increase collagen production and, in turn, improve the appearance of wrinkles, pores, acne and skin texture. But, while these ingredients may be part of the same family – and, often, people don’t even notice the -ol and -al variation on their skincare packaging – there are some key differences between them.
I wanted to procure this knowledge from an expert, speaking to someone in the very profession that specialises in all things skin: a dermatologist. Below, Dr. Conal Perrett reveals everything you need to know about these beauty buzzwords, from skin type suitability to usage advice. Here’s what he had to say.
Meet the expert
- Dr. Conal Perrett is a consultant dermatologist and dermatological surgeon, and completed his medical training more than 20 years ago in 2001. With a PhD on the topic of skin cancer, Dr. Perrett is also the leading consultant at London-based practice, The Devonshire Clinic.
What’s the difference between retinol and retinal?
“Retinol, retinal and retinoic acid are all forms of vitamin A used in skincare, but they differ in potency, conversion pathways and clinical use,” Dr. Perrett tells me.
Breaking this down in layman’s terms, he explains that these three types of vitamin A are referred to as ‘retinoids,’ with retinol being the most common. Describing how it works, he says “Once applied, [retinol] must convert twice, first to retinal, then to retinoic acid, before it can act on the skin.” By comparison, “Retinal is only one conversion step away from retinoic acid, so it works faster.” This, he concludes, makes retinol more gentle and retinal “more potent.” While retinoic acid is the strongest and quickest acting of the three, Dr. Perrett caveats that it “is prescription-only.
“No conversion is required, so results are quicker and more dramatic, but with a higher risk of irritation.”
What can retinol and retinal be used for?
Below, Dr. Perrett lists a range of skincare queries that might warrant using retinol or retinal, highlighting in each case which formula would be better suited:
- Acne – Use a retinal for acne “as it’s antibacterial and more potent.”
- Wrinkles – “Either can help, but retinal works faster.”
- Sensitive skin – Use a retinol “as it is gentler and less irritating.”
- Hyperpigmentation – Use a retinal “for quicker results.”
- Undereyes – In this instance, use “a low dose of retinol, as it is gentler for such delicate skin.”
Is retinal stronger than retinol?
“[Retinol] is commonly estimated to be around 10–11 times more potent at equivalent percentages, as it requires only one conversion step to become retinoic acid, compared with two for retinol,” outlines Dr. Perrett. Clarifying this with real-world percentages, he states, “A concentration of 1 per cent retinal is significantly stronger than 1 per cent retinol, and the two are not equivalent.
“In fact, studies suggest that 0.1 per cent retinal can deliver similar or faster results than 1 per cent retinol.”
Is retinal better than retinol?
In a nutshell, Dr. Perrett argues that “where [retinol or retinal] is better depends on skin type, experience and tolerance.”
He praises retinal for its ability to “provide faster, more pronounced results for acne, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation,” adding that its antibacterial properties further aid its progress with acne sufferers. That said, he cautions that retinal is “more difficult to find in well-formulated products due to its instability and cost.”
In her guide to the best retinols and retinals, beauty editor Lucy Partington recommended several effective retinal formulas, including the products below.
The Ordinary retinal 0.2% emulsion
Murad retinal ReSculpt overnight treatment
Medik8 crystal retinal 10
Is retinal more expensive than retinol?
“Generally, yes, retinal is more expensive,” confirms Dr. Perrett. This is because, as touched on above, creating an effective formulation is tricky. Dr. Perrett also informs me that retinal formulas need to be stabilised, meaning that “commercial retinal products are usually priced higher and packaged in advanced containers to preserve efficacy.”
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Should you start with retinol instead of retinal?
In short, yes, according to Dr. Perrett. “We recommend starting with retinol, especially for beginners or those with sensitive skin, given its gentler profile. Retinal can then be introduced if retinol is well tolerated and stronger results are desired,” he advises.
However, in specific circumstances – for instance, Dr. Perrett lists, “for a more aggressive treatment of acne or anti-ageing” – he suggests that a low dose of retinal may prove helpful if recommended by a medical professional.
Can retinol and retinal be used together?
Yes, they technically can but, Dr. Perrett warns, “[using them together] is generally unnecessary and can increase irritation without offering additional benefit.” His top tip? “[Choose] one based on the skin’s needs and tolerance.”
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