For 100 prosperous years ferries to France were Folkestone’s modus operandi. London-Paris trains would stop at the harbour as steamboats took passengers across the Channel. However, with the advent of the car in the 1960s, the Dover-Calais route proved more popular with drivers. And when the Channel Tunnel opened on the edge of town in 1994, Folkestone lost its principal purpose.
Art was seen as a way to bring life and prosperity back to Folkestone, and while Venice has its Biennale, Folkestone has gone one better with its Triennial. Every three years, the town comes alive as Kent’s answer to Venice with the UK’s biggest show of newly commissioned contemporary art taking place across the town. The first Triennial took place in 2008. This year’s event opened on July 19 and runs until October 19.
On my visit this summer, I explored some of the 18 new artworks dotted around Folkestone and was particularly taken by Finnish musician Hanna Tuulikki’s Love (Warbler Remix). I put on headphones and listened to a collection of birds singing in their different languages while studying the maps and charts of migration routes, taken by birds and people. The artwork can be found in The Warren, a nature reserve where collapsed cliffs and dunes provide a habitat for over 150 species of native birds, while on the high points, you can see around to the White Cliffs of Dover.
Not far from The Warren, a Martello Tower built to repel Napoleonic troops had been taken over by Katie Paterson. Her Afterlife series of amulets from various cultures around the world was placed on a beautiful wooden table that curled around the tower’s circular interior.
I caught a live performance of Emeka Ogboh’s Ode To The Channel, involving a group of female singers chanting a chorus dedicated to the sea by the water’s edge, with the cliffs of the Pas de Calais twinkling in the distance. The artist has also designed an ice cream, which I tried from the homemade gelato shop, Herbert’s. You dip the creamy ice lolly into salty flakes.
Swimmers and surfers will particularly enjoy the Ministry of Sewers. Art is often painfully earnest, yet this satirical gesture by the Turner-Prize-nominated artist collection, Cooking Sections, raises a smile. Styled to look like a government ministry, you can go and learn about water pollution and make complaints to a “minister” if you’ve suffered a sewage-related illness. I found it a humbling reminder of how precious the UK’s water and coastline are.
The Ministry of Sewers is at the Customs House, next to the old Harbour Railway Station. This old station has been beautifully restored, and visitors can walk around the remains of some of the Harbour Branch Line that’s been turned into Folkestone’s answer to the High Line – a pedestrianised path planted that stretches a few hundred metres inland and is decorated with wildflowers, red Valerians, California poppies and purple spikes of lavender.
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Other artists this year include Sarah Wood showing a mysterious film, Celine Condorelli’s dynamic flag sculptures moving in the wind by Sunny Sands beach – the Copacabana of Folkestone, where youngsters lark around with dance music blaring and footballs flying around – and Dorothy Cross’ brooding feet sculptures lapped by the waves on the Harbour Arm.
As well as art, modern architecture is on display in Folkestone, too. People travel from around the world to see Chamberlin, Powell & Bon’s Barbican in London, yet in Folkestone, they designed two iconic Modernist buildings, too. There’s the bulky brutalist tower of No.1 The Leas, and next to it the even more spectacular Whitecliffs flats. These flats are stepped back so that every one has a huge balcony. All the doors and the car park is at the back, so nothing obscures the sea views. These were some of the most spectacular seaside flats from the 1970s in the UK, and in my opinion, both buildings ape the austere design flourishes of the Barbican.
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While this year’s Folkestone Triennale is a standout, don’t worry if you can’t make it before October, because there are 82 artworks by 51 artists from previous years’ events dotted around town. You can see pieces by David Shrigley, Tracey Emin, Mark Wallinger and Cornelia Parker, year-round.
How to get there
Southeastern offers multiple daily high-speed services from London St Pancras and Stratford International to Folkestone Central, taking 53 minutes. Slower direct services are also available from London Charing Cross and London Bridge
Where to eat
Pomus strikes the perfect balance between a place for everyday lunches and special dinners and straddles the tightrope between hip and accessible. It’s the brainchild of experienced restaurateur Ryan Jacovides, who launched new restaurants for Lina Stores, Kricket and Jamie Oliver. “I remember childhood holidays in Margate, Folkestone and Rye – I wanted to capture some of that nice nostalgia,” he told me as he greeted me at the brand new restaurant, which opened its doors on July 9.
Rocksalt is the place to go for a seafood blowout. The terrace and glass-fronted dining room designed by architect Guy Hollaway, have expansive harbour views, right on the water. “It’s giving Salcombe” laughed one fellow diner – and they weren’t wrong. A dressed Devon crab and a chocolate torte with fresh local raspberries are highlights.
Who could come to Folkestone and not have fish ‘n’ chips? Harbour Fish Bar is a traditional chippy with a twist. The man behind the fryer is Murat Karakartal, originally from Turkey. He tells he’s been frying fish and cooking chips here for 14 years. “I love to fish too!” he said, and proudly showed me a bucket of fresh-caught mackerel.
Where to Stay
London & Paris
I checked in at London & Paris, Folkestone’s little boutique bolthole by the Harbour. Chloe and her team gave a great welcome, and the rooms were thoughtfully laid out with retro radios, houseplants, plenty of nooks and cushions, and windows that look towards the fishing boats and the sea.
The Clifton
Folkestone’s other accommodation choice is the Clifton, a grand dame of the Folkestone hotel world since 1864. Located up on the Leas Cliffs with stirring views.
Chris was hosted by Folkestone Triennial, London & Paris, Pomus, Harbour Fish Bar, Rocksalt and Southeastern Trains.
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