In a world dominated by modern conveniences and digital devices, it’s humbling to discover the surprising sophistication of ancient technologies.
A visit to the ancient city of Side, nestled on the Turkish Riviera, reveals just that.
Dating back to the 7th century BC, Side boasts ruins including a Roman forum, a theatre, and a reconstructed Greek fountain. The fountain showcases ingenious technology used to channel water into the city from the mountains.
While much of the city remains unexcavated, the visible infrastructure offers marvels that could inform modern urban planning. The Romans ingeniously integrated pipes into walls rather than burying them under streets, which prevented the need to disrupt areas for repairs.
According to Ismet, a local guide, Side’s 2,000-year-old drainage system remains fully functional, having recently passed a test with flying colours after heavy rainfall.
“This is the centre of the world,” Ismet proclaims, highlighting Side’s historical importance as a nexus of ancient trading routes. Overlooking the sea under the sun, modern establishments breathe new life into the city’s ancient foundations.
I’m one of the many tourists wising up to what’s on offer along the Turkish Riviera. Around four hours flight from London, it’s a place where there are 320 days of sun a year, according to Ismet.
“Autumn is the best season,” he says, when daytime temperatures hover around 27C and the sea is still blissfully warm. Plus, in October and November, you don’t have the same crowds as you would in summer.
I’m staying a five-minute drive away from Side, in a resort called Bijal. The Turkish Riviera might have a reputation for cheap and cheerful package holidays, but Bijal wants to change that and bring a bit of Maldives-inspired luxury to the coastline.
In fact, the owners – the Gürok Group – are also responsible for the Joali and Joali Being resorts in the Maldives. Similarly tropical and chic influences are felt in their Turkey outpost, which officially opened in spring last year.
Bijal feels delightfully quiet and serene compared to the hubbub outside its walls. All 19 villas have a private pool so you really don’t have to encounter anyone else if you don’t want to. And while I’ve taken the time to marvel at ancient technology, I can’t help but still appreciate the perks of modern life at Bijal – like heated pools and the high-tech gym.
Art classes are one of several on-site activities designed to lure guests out of their villas. Over the course of three sessions, London-based painter and ceramicist Venetia Berry helps my creative juices flow through pottery and painting classes, with easels set up overlooking the beach and sea.
I’m not very artistically talented, but luckily it’s a low-pressure situation and Venetia teaches a more surreal style, which really gives a newbie like me a lot of wiggle room.
“It’s very meditative,” says Venetia. “You’re looking at a beautiful view and painting, and not thinking about your phone or what meetings you have planned.”
She’s right. Sometimes we really need to be forced to put down our smartphones to realise how glorious it is to be disconnected.
“People will often leave school and not paint for 10, 15, 20 years and that inner child is still there,” adds Venetia.
Staff at Bijal have reported that guests who were previously art novices – like myself – have taken a class on a whim and returned home to enrol in courses.
When not painting, I spend time swapping between my private pool and the sandy beach – just a five-minute walk or two-minute cycle away from the villas, complete with a beach club and cabanas to stretch out in. Table tennis tables, dartboards, chessboards and various games prevent me from wasting hours doomscrolling on my phone.
In just a few days, I come to realise the Turkish Riviera is every bit as appealing as the Maldives – minus the 10-plus hour journey and jet lag. And who knows, maybe I’ll even have to look into some painting classes myself to keep the holiday going for months to come.
How to do it
Stays from €900 (£750) per night for a one-bedroom villa on B&B basis (two sharing); bijal.com.tr
